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Thread: Darth Vader ANH MPP 2.0 Kit + NBv4 + Tri Cree DR/R/W - First Build!

  1. #1

    Default Darth Vader ANH MPP 2.0 Kit + NBv4 + Tri Cree DR/R/W - First Build!

    This is the build log for my first saber. I cosplay as Darth Vader and I wanted a more robust saber than MR or Hasbro. I have included my final parts list and will include links to where I find parts. I will have many questions as I go through this process and I look forward to building an awesome saber. I am trying to complete this by 7/15 so any help is appreciated!

    Final Parts List:

    From TCSS
    MPP 2.0 Saber Kit
    White shouldered 7/8" thin walled blade tip with reflective disc
    7/8" Thin walled Trans White PolyC 36" long
    9" Electronics shield for 1.25" ID tubes
    Star thermal tape pad - Tri LED
    Custom Tri-Cree LED
    18650 Single Cell Holder
    Nano Biscotte Sound Module V4
    MHS speaker mount V6 - For 28mm Speakers
    28mm Bass Speaker
    18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens
    (1) .5ohm 3w resistor - white led
    (2) 1.2ohm 3w resistor - Dark Red/Red led

    From KR Sabers/The Saber Armory - https://thesaberarmory.com
    7/8" OD Heatsink Module - for tri cree MPP 2.0 models
    MPP 2.0 ANH Blade Plug - 7/8"

    NWSaberParts - https://www.etsy.com/listing/5059411...re-acuracy-kit
    MPP 2.0 Accuracy Kit (5 screws to replace kit)

    Future bought install items
    Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack
    3.7V Li-ion smart charger with 2.1mm plug

    Misc
    26G wire colors
    JST connectors 2 wires version

    Tools I did not have that I needed to buy
    1. Mini vise
    2. heat shrink tubing - 1/16"-3/4" buy a variety pack
    3. decent solder iron & metal tip cleaner
    4. JST connectors (I want to make some of the connection quick connect for removal)
    5. Will add more later when I buy

    Step 1 - Build Kit

    I assembled the kit which is pretty straight forward. I shot a video that I will upload soon on the build to my YouTube channel. I switched out the hex screws for the MPP Accuracy kit slotted screws.

    IMG_9668.jpgIMG_9688.jpgIMG_9691.jpgIMG_9685.jpgIMG_9697.jpg


    Step 2 - Battery holder
    Wired then shaving off corners for the holder to fit into the V6 Speaker mount then add battery remover ribbon.

    IMG_9710.jpgIMG_9711.jpg


    Step 3 - Wiring speaker

    IMG_9713.jpgIMG_9714.jpg


    Step 4 - Inserting speaker into V6 speaker mount.
    Per the YouTube vids from Rob/TCSS Channel - I used a drummer to channel groves on the inner sides so the speaker and solder will fit. Then used the credit card trick to seat the speaker into the mount securely.

    IMG_9715.jpg

    I am waiting for my 7/8" OD Heatsink Module from the Saber Armory in the UK so I cannot do the complete wiring yet.

    Questions:
    1. How do I seat(fix) the NBv4 board to the V6 mount top part? Double sided tape?
    2. Where does the Heat sink module go in the top part of the hilt and how does it stay there? I have not found any pictures of this install.

    More soon!

    Cheers
    Last edited by DarthVTX; 07-10-2017 at 07:08 PM.

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarthVTX View Post

    Questions:
    1. How do I seat(fix) the NBv4 board to the V6 mount top part? Double sided tape?
    2. Where does the Heat sink module go in the top part of the hilt and how does it stay there? I have not found any pictures of this install.

    More soon!

    Cheers
    1. Hot glue is what I used on my MHS V6's. Velcro can work, but might have bad clashes. Velcro is too loose. Double sided tape works, but my not let the board breathe. I used hot glue sparingly.
    2. I don't know, but I imagine you'll have to drill and tap a set screw to hold the LED module in, much like the Graflex 2.0 kits. I'm still anxiously awaiting mine. I am building a 501st vader, and MPP is my next project.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  3. #3

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    Thanks for the info.

    Seating the NBv4 board
    Hot glue seems to be the best option unless you have a 3D chassis that you can clip the board into. I will look into this option later.

    Heat sink+holder+lens+tri cree module
    I asked around and for this MPP 2.0 hilt, the retention screw seems to be the answer. I'm trying to figure out where to put it in the hilt. How far back does it go? I heard for some videos that the blade sits in 1 1/2" from the opening - does that sound right?

    I am also thinking to somehow install it on a PVC tube and insert it...
    Last edited by DarthVTX; 07-12-2017 at 06:16 AM.

  4. #4

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    I've watched some of Shameem's install vids, and he has the module behind the wire slits (the slits where the wires go on the outside), because you can see him getting shine through at the wire slits. I'd seat that module as far back as you can. On the Graflex, I seated mine until it butted the battery. My battery was up inside the 7/8 core, as it will be in the MPP as well. Not sure how deep you should go using the V6? Maybe just behind those slits?

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  5. #5

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    Correct. I will measure the open space inside, but the Heat sink module is 1" in height. So using a 7/8" tube, I measured its 1 1/2" from the inner screws(slits) to the hilt opening in the top part. I believe I can use the following setup:

    Hilt top part

    Blade screws/open/screws 1" LED module 7/8OD 1/2" tube
    [----------------------------][----------------------][-----------------][-------------------] | Cap off somehow


    I will be using the bulb release switch and will run the wires from that and the LED to the back where the V6 is set - I was planning to add JST connectors to allow me to separate the two hilt halves but not sure if that is worth the effort.

    Thanks!

  6. #6

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    I just use a couple pieces of electrical tape on either side of the NB and attach it to the V6. I don't cover the board to let it breath. There should be a little bit of board on either side to attach the tape to. Has worked well for me and very sturdy.

  7. #7

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    I have everything wired per the NBv3 vid Rob did. I have sound, act switch works, kill key works but no leds come on. Any idea where to start?

  8. #8

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    config files. or check your main positive feed and negative feed. Double check continuity on all your main led. If your LED is wired correctly, and you have continuity, then its probably an issue in your config files on your sd card.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  9. #9

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    can you post pics of LED, pics of board solders?

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  10. #10

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    Ok - opened the SD card and I do not see a config.txt file. Where can I find one and the parameters for

    Red led
    Dark Red led
    White FOC led

    Thanks!

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