Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 15 of 15

Thread: wiring up a custo Tri-Cree (RGB) to a NB V4

  1. #11

    Default

    Yes, I did read the manual and it lack some info; like some of the options in the SD card config files, or what the other 2 txt files in the root of the card does (I assume one is just for reference about which bank was last used, and the other is an "about" file).

    For the sound fonts I did find a site that has a lots of various sounds, so it is a matter of patiently trim them in audacity and see if they work

  2. #12

    Default

    I believe that root menu in the main folder is the override menu, I haven't messed with it. The only files I've messed with are the config files in each font folder. Messed with Drive and FDrive, like I told you in one of my first posts. Sounds are easy to replace, as are entire fonts, boot sounds, etc. Have fun with it, its all part of learning. Just make sure you back up factory files on your computer first. You now know they work. If saber ever starts doing weird stuff, suspect the SD Card files before anything else. You put a bad sound file on there, it can throw the whole saber for a loop, cause a glitch in the matrix so to speak. Mess around with the blending, colors, shimmer, all of it. You have RGB, make that sucker like you want it. By the way full blue and full green, make a really cool aqua/arctic blue that looks very IV ish.

    I'm so glad you got it all working. The manuals leave a lot of inference in, when you're not completely familiar with the products. As I said before, I found it helpful to read the manuals for all of their product line, as that helped me wrap my head around their common functionality/programming. I have never touched a Crystal Focus 8, but I understand how they work. Aspects of CF8 are in existence in NBIV. The NBIV is pretty new, and the manual seems to be a work in progress. For instance: most of the customers that buy the NBIV are probably running 2 colors and a white diode for FOC. So they'll probably, most likely install their sabers with no power extender. There was no wiring diagram in the manual I have that showed wiring with no power extender. Therefore, I had to assume many things. So, knowing that these boards evolve, and maintain many solid features (like wiring pads) through their evolution. I looked to the NBIII manual for guidance, and got it. A lot of guys who wire the NBIII and NBIV routinely know the board/features so well, its often hard for them to view the world from a noob perspective. Many things are left for inference in the manual, but when you don't have the pre-existing knowledge to bring context to the inference, it can leave you a bit confused. It certainly did me. I hope this saber is a huge learning experience for you, and that you have oodles of fun messing around with its capabilities! You will learn a ton to develop that contextual knowledge you'll be able to put to use the next time you wire a saber!

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  3. #13

    Default

    Yep, I've been playing for a while now; and already recharghed the battery twice :P
    With the LED mixing it is interesting because they do NOT have the same intensity; I did get a color mixer app on my computer, which is totally off since the intensity of each color is assumed to be 0 as absent, and 1 as full brightness.

    So for example a shade that should have RGB as 1023, 300,0; end up nothing like the one on screen because the red LED is much brighter than the green, and the blue is much brighter than the green (so in order of brightness, they go R->B->G).
    I am just adding numbers at random, reducing or increasing when I find a right shade. I wish it was possible to change values on the fly on the board; but the manual say to not touch the SD card unless the board is powered off.

    I wish the manual had a list of each parameters in order and in the same place, and then it would add some examples to show what you get when you change specific parameters. The shimmering is quite hard to get right; since involve so many different parameters; but when you get it right it is awesome I will check also the other manuals, so I can compare and see what does fit in my case.
    I get that the more you use a board, the more you know it, but what is the point of the manual then? :P When I did start with Arduino, there were so many source where to find info, that a manual was not even needed; although you can always go to the original ATMega manual and get most of the register info from there; which helps when you are trying something and nobody did try it yet.

    BTW everything get forgotten once you start to swing the sword around, and see that shimmer on the room walls (because you have to close the blinds, cmon!)

  4. #14

    Default

    Once you get to the higher end boards like the Petit Crouton, you'll have the option to use RICE and adjust settings in real-time. The NB was designed as an entry-level board, so some features aren't available.

    More are being added with each new revision. The NBv4 is superior in most respects to the original PC release.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #15

    Default

    I love my little NBIV in my graflex. Its a nice little board. It works.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •