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Thread: MPP 3.0 Vader ANH Parts List

  1. #11


    Quote Originally Posted by DarthVTX View Post

    MPP 2.0 Chassis Black - IS this needed if I have the V6 speaker mount above? Also - It is used with the Wired battery but not the Wired NBv4 - is there a chassis that will accommodate both?
    You don't need the MPP 2.0 Chassis Black if you use V6 Speaker Holder and 18650 Battery Holder. The V6 speaker holder IS your chassis. It will house the battery, soundboard, and speaker. You can run your wires to your recharge port from your battery contacts in the battery carrier. You then run contacts from your recharge port to your NBIV mounted on the V6. This way you can charge/replace have the choice. The V6 holder carries everything. Its the solution you're looking for that is simplest for a new builder. You can always improve upon this later by custom building a chassis. I'm getting ready to build my MPP, but using a 3D printed chassis, and a more complex board, not sure which one yet.

    Link to the V6 holder, look at all the pix in the link. V6 Battery Holder, click HERE

    The hollow side of the V6 holder is where the battery carrier housing goes. Click HERE for battery housing.

    The opposite side of the holder, the flat side is where your NBIV will be mounted, so you can have SD card access. Your wires come in the front of holder and solder onto your NBIV. Your SD card should eject towards the speaker. The speaker mounts in the back of the V6 holder. You really need to watch Madcow's V6 holder video, my words are elusive to explain all this, but the V6 can do it all. Madcow's Video:

    ...more in a bit.
    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 06-30-2017 at 08:54 PM.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  2. #12


    This is Madcow's video about the 18650 battery holder that fits into the V6 Speaker Holder:

    I have linked to both of the parts demonstrated in these 2 videos by Madcow. I also linked to a video previously where Shameem used the V6 holder as a chassis in a MPP he build for Korbanth. So, this V6 is your solution, that in fact, should save you some money on your build.


    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  3. #13


    BTW, I have seen some guys put a recharge port in the clamp. I don't have my MPP 2.0 kit yet, so I'm not familiar enough to give you firm advice on that. My recharge port in my build will be in the 3d chassis at the back, and accessible through the pommel. The speaker is mounted a little further forward in that 3D chassis than it is in the V6 you're going to use. Just another idea to throw at you. You would just need to figure out a way to run your 4 wires from recharge port to your chassis through the clamp/hilt.

    On the recharge port, I run 2 red lines off the positive feed. One to the battery, one to the board.

    Black wire from battery direct to recharge pin on port. I then run a white wire off the Kill pin (the one the kill key knocks out). The white wire goes to my board. When kill key is in, no return to board. When kill key is out, board has juice. So, you would have 4 wires running from clamp to board, unless you want to drill a hole in the hilt for a recharge port. I'd think there is somewhere to put it, where it would be more subdued/hidden. Particularly if you are going for approval with 501st. With that being said, I don't think my GML was well-versed enough in sabers to even know what he was looking at. Some of them are though. Get to know your GML.

    Also, little bit about the pre-wired can do that, but I think your life would be a lot easier if you could solder. Soldering isn't rocket science, maybe a bit of art, but not science. With some fairly simple practice, it can be done.

    My NBIV solders: BoardSolder.jpg
    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 06-30-2017 at 11:30 PM. Reason: Soldering add

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  4. #14


    Thank you for the videos and the tips. I placed my order today and its being shipped today - so fast service!

    Some items I did not order...

    1. Tri Cree Lens - is that needed and should I order? -

    2. Is there a holder for the heat sink + Tri Cree LED?

    3. Resistors - from what I read - a setup of Tri Cree DR/R/W + NBv4 + 18650 3.7 V battery ->

    Deep Red Cree Part# XPEEPRD-L1-0000-00C01

    425 Radiant Flux @ 350mA
    Forward Voltage @1000mA = 2.5v

    R <Ohms> = (3.7 - (2.5)) / 1A
    R = 1.2
    P <Watts> = 1.2 * 1A
    P = 1.2
    1.2 ohm, 3W watt resistor

    Red Cree Part# XPEBRD-L1-0000-00901

    80.6 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA
    Forward Voltage @1000mA = 2.59v

    R <Ohms> = (3.7 - (2.59)) / 1A
    R = 1.11
    P <Watts> = 1.11 * 1A
    P = 1.11
    1.2 ohm, 3W watt resistor

    White Cree Part# XPEBWT-L1-0000-00F51
    266 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 1000mA
    Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.15v

    R <Ohms> = (3.7 - (3.15)) / 1A

    R = 0.55
    P <Watts> = 0.55 * 1A
    P = 0.55
    0.5 ohm, 3W watt resistor


  5. #15


    Your resistor plan: I think you now understand Ohm's law, and your resistor plan is solid on 3.7 volt battery! The only thing I'd add is that you can resistor your white, as you might be driving it a bit hard....but FOC doesn't stay on long. I didn't resistor my white on my Graflex install. Your reds definitely need that 1.2 Ohm 3 watt resistor though, or you'll fry them quick.

    You need the lens on the tri-cree. Let me shoot you a video and timepiece to watch on how to assemble the LED, Lens, and LED module. Basically, the LED star attaches to the copper heat sink with thermally conductive tape. They sell the tape for the stars at TCSS, order a couple in case you have issues peeling backing and mess it up. So, solder your wires to your LED, tape the LED star to the copper heat sink, place the lens on the LED (legs go in the holes on the star), then screw the heat sink into the module. The module you need for the 7/8 adapter in the MPP should be THIS ONE------>CLICK HERE. Its currently out of stock at TCSS, which is tough. They are currently playing catchup on machining parts to get MHSV2 line back up and running, so this module may take awhile to restock.

    Note: when using the .875" OD Heatsink Module from The Custom Saber Shop, you either need to order a tri-cree with a modified base, or be willing to modify it yourself. Basically, the copper base that the LEDs are mounted upon is too wide for the .875" heatsink/LED module. If you have a dremel and sanding disks you can just sand the outside of the star down so that it fits into the .875" module. I modified my own base. If you modify your tri cree base with a dremel, be careful not to use pliers or vice where they pinch or touch the actual LEDs. The three LEDs of your Tri_Cree are soldered on a PCB, which is all mounted on the base and forms the whole tri-cree LED. You don't want to hold onto the base at the actual LED's. Also, when soldering, be very cautious not to let the soldering iron touch the LEDs!!!!! You'll melt the little lenses on the diodes. You don't want to do that.

    Video, watch from: 7:42 (I had already attached the LED Star to the heat sink with the star tape, but this shows you how to assemble the module and lens.

    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 07-05-2017 at 07:19 PM. Reason: add comments on Resistors

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  6. #16


    This video shows the entire deal: installing the star on the heat sink, putting the lens on the LED, and then assembling the heat sink/star/lens into the module. The TCSS Custom Saber Shop Adapter for Kylo Ren acts as the LED Module in this saber. So think of that longer piece as an actual shorter module for the MPP. This particular piece of TCSS engineering also acts as the blade holder when modifying a Black Series Kylo Ren Saber. Start watching at 1:15.

    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 07-07-2017 at 03:38 PM.

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  7. #17


    Why the lens is important! Here is Madcow (from Genesis Custom Sabers) video about how to get a bright evenly lit blade on your saber. This is one of the best videos he ever made, and in my opinion, you really need to watch all of his videos on TCSS youtube channel before you begin your build. He will save you time, heartache, and money!


    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  8. #18


    Thanks for the video. I am excited to start as I have one week until I am a guest at a local comic book convention in North Texas. In the meantime I am working on my helmet's fans and padding.

    I will order the resistors for the reds & white (better be safe than sorry) plus the lens cover and extra pads.

    Will this 7/8" module work? - - It's sold in the US.

    Thanks again!

  9. #19


    That will work. You will need to find some way to secure the lens to the LED star base. The TCSS modules have a lip near the end that captures the lens to hold it tight on the star. With this copper module, you'll need to hot glue or superglue the lens to the LED Star, and then drop it in. You will still have the issue of probably needing to sand the perimeter of the LED star to reduce its diameter.

    I'm not sure what the "core" looks like on the MPP, but you'll need to drill and tap some sort of retention screw for the LED module in the core.

    Good luck, I'm Kylo Ren this weekend for a Lucasfilm Limited approved baseball game appearance. Like I said before, the MPP is my next build, so I'm very interested to see how your project turns out. My Darth Ryo chassis is on the way, and I'm about to order the rest of the parts I need next week!


    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  10. #20


    I found one more source that seem to have the module I need. All other sources are sold out for now.

    7/8″ OD Heatsink Module


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