MPP 3.0 Vader ANH Parts List

[DarthVTX]

I am excited to start my journey to build my first saber. I have been reading and watching YouTube videos and have a good idea on what I like to build. I have sourced several sites and put this list together. I will be adding questions here once I receive the parts and begin.

I cosplay as both ANH & ROTS Vader. I plan to have my ANH Vader confirmed for registration for the 501st, so I decided to build the ANH Vader saber (I understand there was two types/looks used in ANH).

EDITED - 7/5/2017

Looking for confirmation....

HILT
TCSS MPP 2.0 Saber Kit

Sound
Nano Biscotte Sound Module V4
28mm Base speaker
MHS speaker mount V6 28MM - Speaker mount to house the 18650, NBv4, and the 28mm bass speaker

Light
Tri Cree XPE-2 LED DR/R/W
MHS Heat Sink V4 (Flat Style)
Star thermal tape pad - Tri LED
ANYTHING ELSE NEEDED? Resistors?

Blade
7/8” Blade - thin walled trans white poly carbonate blade - LENGTH? I am doing a ANH vader build
Blade plug 7/8”

Power
18650 3.7v 3400mah lithium ion battery
18650 Single Cell Holder
Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack - recharge port
9" Electronics shield for 1.25" ID tubes
ANYTHING ELSE NEEDED?

I was hoping to find a wiring diagram for the battery + recharge port + NBv4 + Tri Cree LED including resistors (?) placement.

Thanks and I will continue this in my future build thread which is here:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...W-First-Build!

[jbkuma]

Unless you plan on having different mixes for your DR and R LEDs, you don't need that extender.

I'm assuming the 2 batteries are to swap.. the chassis says it's intended to use with pre-wired batteries. I'm not sure if you'll have room for a connector or not. It doesn't look like you will from the photo.

[Tom Tilmon]

I just built a Graflex with NBIV. I have no power exender. I am running a blue, blue, white tri cree with white flash on clash. The only reason you would need that power extender is if you are planning on mixing the Deep Red and Red tri diodes in some fashion.

Jake Sloan over on SLD runs straight Deep Red. I have done a Kylo saber (I'm 501st as well DS-74759), and I used all deep red in one, and all red in the other. I like the deep red better. If you ran the deep red only and forgo any mixing you can get rid of the power extender. Heck, even if you want to mix the deep red and red di, you can mix them evenly and wire them parallel to the L1 Pad. Then wire your white di to L2 (FOC).

I'm not sure if that chassis system will work for removeable batteries. I don't know if the Speaker Holder VI with the 18650 battery carrier will work in the MPP hilt, but some people have adapted it to the Graflex chassis. Come to think of it, I'm pretty sure I saw a MPP install by shameem on youtube where he used Speakder Holder VI in a MPP Install. If that is possible, that is a fairly cheap chassis solution for you that allows interchangeable batteries, but would also make it possible to wire a recharge port for normal usage. I have removeable batteries in one of my Kylo Sabers, and on the other one, I went straight recharge port. the one problem with shuttling the chassis in and out to change batteries often is that you end up eventually damaging wires/solder joints.


He did manage to use the Speaker Holder VI in the MPP. That will work. I linked to the parts on TCSS above in the paragraph. If you go that route, either get some T8 protective tubing at the crepot or lowes, or you can also buy it here to insulate your board/wiring from the hilt. The T8 tubing is a plastic tube that will fit perfectly over the Speaker Holder VI! Its a very simple solution to your chassis woes.

So, what I have done is put a recharge port onto my replaceable battery saber, so that I can recharge the batteries without shuttling out the chassis. Mostly I recharge the battery in the hilt, and only rarely open the pommel. to change batteries at troops. I have 2 sabers. I use one til it dies, then switch to the other while the first one charges.

By the way, I love the NBIV board. Simplicity, size, sound, and sensitivity are hard to beat for that price. Its a cool little board for a single color saber. My next build is a MPP with Darth Ryo Chassis/Crystal Chamber reveal, so I'd be interested in watching your progress. My first parts are already on their way, but will take a bit to save up for the hilt kit and other various and sundry electronics that I need to finish it.

Tom

pps: even though in the NBIV instructions where you can adjust the drive voltage to potentially forego the usage of resistors.......use the resistors, because I think you'd have to turn the drive down below the suggested 80% of max to avoid overdriving the red/deep red diodes. So, I'd just configure the NBIV to drive them fully "1023" and resistor the red/deep red diodes of your main LED.

[rlobrecht]

You do not need the clash sensor. One is built into the board.

[DarthVTX]

Thanks for the great feedback specifically about the power extender and NBv4! I have adjusted my parts list and reduced expense!

I have EDITED my parts list above.

I read above the there are tow basic methods to power the saber - removable batteries or recharge port. I would love to hear pros and cons as there does not seem to be much difference cost wise - just the knowledge to wire each method up.

I am ordering the hilt and will slowly purchase the parts.

[Tom Tilmon]

Thanks for the great feedback specifically about the power extender and NBv4! I have adjusted my parts list and reduced expense!

I have EDITED my parts list above.

I read above the there are tow basic methods to power the saber - removable batteries or recharge port. I would love to hear pros and cons as there does not seem to be much difference cost wise - just the knowledge to wire each method up.

I am ordering the hilt and will slowly purchase the parts.

The nice thing about replaceable batteries is that when your saber dies, you shuttle out the chassis and insert a fresh soldier, boom saber back on. If all you have is a recharge port, it'll be a few hours until you can play again. IF you use the MHS Speaker Holder VI, it is possible to have both. You can have replaceable batteries and a recharge port. I wired one of my sabers like that. Wire the recharge port to the battery terminals. Red coming off positive on port to board. I wire white as hot negative lead (when kill key is out) off the recharge port to the board. Battery connections on 18650 holder go straight to the recharge port. This way, you can mainly recharge in hilt without shuttling chassis in and out all the time; however, at a con, you can pull the quick switch to avoid the wait. To me, this gives you some options. Plus, the speaker holder VI is a great chassis option. Shameem used it right? Anything Shameem can do, I'll follow. He's crazy, weird, and I like that. Star Wars 'n!!!!!

[Tom Tilmon]

PS, Dr to R comparisons.

[Tom Tilmon]

Internals
MPP 2.0 Chassis Black - IS this needed if I have the V6 speaker mount above? Also - It is used with the Wired battery but not the Wired NBv4 - is there a chassis that will accommodate both?

You don't need the MPP 2.0 Chassis Black if you use V6 Speaker Holder and 18650 Battery Holder. The V6 speaker holder IS your chassis. It will house the battery, soundboard, and speaker. You can run your wires to your recharge port from your battery contacts in the battery carrier. You then run contacts from your recharge port to your NBIV mounted on the V6. This way you can charge/replace batteries...you have the choice. The V6 holder carries everything. Its the solution you're looking for that is simplest for a new builder. You can always improve upon this later by custom building a chassis. I'm getting ready to build my MPP, but using a 3D printed chassis, and a more complex board, not sure which one yet.

Link to the V6 holder, look at all the pix in the link. V6 Battery Holder, click HERE

The hollow side of the V6 holder is where the battery carrier housing goes. Click HERE for battery housing.

The opposite side of the holder, the flat side is where your NBIV will be mounted, so you can have SD card access. Your wires come in the front of holder and solder onto your NBIV. Your SD card should eject towards the speaker. The speaker mounts in the back of the V6 holder. You really need to watch Madcow's V6 holder video, my words are elusive to explain all this, but the V6 can do it all. Madcow's Video:



...more in a bit.