That would work fine but your ID will be 1.15" rather than 1.25", it kinda depends on what's going inside it.
Greenie
Looks like you have a switch over the threads between the blade holder and ribbed section below it. You might want to rethink that placement. It will interfere with the led module not to mention you'd have to drill a pretty big hole through threads.
No, that is not a realistic design.
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"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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^^^ This statement is completely false.
Yes this is possible..... just not with conventional MHS parts from the store. This entire design would need to be a custom commissioned piece and could be discussed with Tim if you are serious about it.
You could even keep your switch placement. I would start by making your ribbed piece with a male threaded end there by moving them from where your switch is and adding internal female threads to the base of your emitter. This would mean that your blade holder would need to be extended on the bottom by .250" or so to accommodate the internal female threading.
There is nothing here that I see that cannot be done so long as you have a little ingenuity.
There's a difference between knowing the path.....and walking the path.
TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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Yeah, DC has already flagged that. Just a little adjustment required and a bit crum-fu. There may even be room for a little bit of sarcasm.
I'm kind of leaning towards Forgetful on the switch placement. I was just barely able to get a silver tactile switch in the region above where the heat sink for the LEDs is located just past the blade holder/emitter. That was difficult. Then again I used the larger, thicker v3 heat sink rather than the v4, thinner heat sick. That would have helped me out. However, I did use a tri-Cree and after a while they get hot and the v3 heat sink may be necessary. A single Cree would be ok with the v4 heat sink. Then there should be room for the AV switch as the v4 shouldn't go past the blade holder/emitter.
Last edited by Ris Liam; 06-16-2017 at 06:05 PM.
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