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Thread: Darth Vader Black series conversion questions

  1. #1

    Default Darth Vader Black series conversion questions

    So I'm planning to convert my Vader to inhilt led, do I need resistors and what material will I need to complete this conversion?

  2. #2

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    You will probably need resistors. Most are doing these conversions with 18650 batteries which push 3.7 volts, higher on a full charge, typically that will over-drive Red LEDs, which you will be using for vader.

    1. You need to read disassembly threads on your particular saber.
    2. You need to pick a soundboard that you are happy with its features.7
    3. You need to pick or plan a chassis for your soundboard/battery speaker.
    4. You need the TCSS conversion kit for your saber.
    5. You need an 18650 battery, and then you need to make a decision on whether you want a recharge port, removeable batteries, or both.
    6. You need a tri-cree LED and lens. I don't know which LED to tell you until you make a decision on #2. If you pick a board that enables FOC, then you need R,R,W or DR, DR, W or DR, R, W
    7. You need 28-30 gauge wire, the appropriate resistors for your LED.
    8. You need wire shrink.
    9. You need a switch plan. This will also depend on which board you choose. You may be able to use your existing switch with some boards, or you may choose to mount and drill all new switches. Your board, and features you want enabled may dictate which switches you need.
    10. You need 8-32 tap set, and an assortment of 8-32 set screws (in many different lengths) they're all short.
    11. You need a 1" blade, and blade plug.

    That is a pretty good laundry list, and once you make some decisions on how you are going to do this, I'm sure people here can be of greater assistance. There are many ways to skin a cat.

    PS, you need to read up on Ohm's Law. There are simple calculators as well that can do the math for you for your resistors. When you decide which board, which LED, which battery, you will then be in possession of all of the information you need to calculate the appropriate resistor for your application. You need battery voltage, Forward Voltage of LED, Forward Current of LED in mA. Then you input those parameters into a calculator like this: Resistor Calculator I USE. Those values will be available to you on TCSS, or wherever you purchase your battery and LED.

    Tom
    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 06-09-2017 at 01:07 PM. Reason: added Ohm's Law

    "Let the past die."

  3. #3

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    I just completed a conversion on a 2015 Hasbro ANH Vader last week. The above post is pretty spot on. Assuming full conversion:

    My build list:
    NBV4
    DR/DR/W Tri-Cree
    Conversion Kit
    Lens
    V6 Speaker Holder
    18650 Removable Li-Ion
    Battery Holder
    SPST Momentary Tactile Switch (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...itch-P261.aspx)
    Resistors (1.2o/3w on both DR, .47o on white)
    8-32 x1/4 set screw
    8-32 drill/tap + tap handle
    Pommel insert (as you prefer)

    Some things:
    1.) the screws on the bulb release are glued in. I put padded tape on my wrench to get them out. be careful not to damage the screws or bulb release.
    2.) I spray painted the blade holder black with rustoleum universal satin black, I didn't try to use the window sticker
    3.) Using the V6 speaker holder works really well, but requires a chassis retention screw. I put mine in the ribbed section near the pommel. Works great.
    4.) Activation Switch- this is the tricky part. You need to disassemble the clamp and remove the old switch. The new switch (if you do what I did) will go sit on top of the black wall and underneath the bubble card, wires go thru one of the holes. For my build, 2 wires off the same side of the switch, one to ground, one to Act Switch. I superglued it to the black wall to get it to stay put. I also spray painted the underside of the bubble card silver. I didn't use the silver plate that came with the original saber because I couldn't get the switch to fit underneath well.

    I love how it turned out, it's super sturdy and quite heavy. Let me know if you have specific questions, pm me.
    Last edited by Meatsweats; 06-09-2017 at 03:40 PM.

  4. #4

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    How do you like the DR/DR/W? I am trying to decide if I want that or R/R/W for my Vader conversion. Which is more movie accurate in your opinion? How is the brightness?

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ris Liam View Post
    How do you like the DR/DR/W? I am trying to decide if I want that or R/R/W for my Vader conversion. Which is more movie accurate in your opinion? How is the brightness?
    DR/DR/W is perfect for Vader. I have another DR/DR/R saber on a Spark 2 so I can tweak the colors and compare. DR is the perfect Vader/Sith color. It's pure red without orange. DR/R looks orangey compared to full DR. It's still very bright, you'll lose a touch of brightness due to visible spectum, but it's hardly noticeable. DR is the way to go!

  6. #6

  7. #7

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    For a basic conversion, any idea which pad is the VDD on the 2015 Vader Black Series? I thought I had it right but when I test everything the LED flickers and shuts off and the sound shuts off as well.

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