NBv4 Wiring and Best Practices

[reytheist]

Building my first saber. I'm going to be using a nano biscotte v4 with a GGW tri-LED (to try to do white FoC), and a removable 18650 cell. Here's the diagram I cam up with, which includes my math.

nanoV4-4.jpg

1. Is there anything that I missed or overlooked?
2. Should I be wiring the illumated switch LED to the battery negative or to the main LED pad? Would that be the difference between always on and on when activated?
3. There are some places where I have four wires soldered in to one. Should I solder it separately at a different position?

[Generic Jedi]

Your wiring diagram looks good to me for the most part:

1) In the resistor equation for the green LED, you use 1A for the current, but in the power equation you use 2A for the current. The resistor is correct, but the wattage is high. Also, it's usually recommended to use a separate resistor for each LED.

2) If your switch LED negative is wired to the main LED negative, the switch will light up when you activate the main blade. Wired to the main board negative (like you've got in your diagram) the switch LED will always be on. The board has two pads for the switch LED positive wire. One for always on, and one for off during deep sleep. You can find the diagrams in the manual on pages 14 and 15.

3) I don't like to solder four wires to any one pad on the board. I like to solder the wires together into a single wire, then solder one wire per pad. Someone else may have a better idea.

4) Welcome to the forums!

[reytheist]

Your wiring diagram looks good to me for the most part:

1) In the resistor equation for the green LED, you use 1A for the current, but in the power equation you use 2A for the current. The resistor is correct, but the wattage is high. Also, it's usually recommended to use a separate resistor for each LED.

2) If your switch LED negative is wired to the main LED negative, the switch will light up when you activate the main blade. Wired to the main board negative (like you've got in your diagram) the switch LED will always be on. The board has two pads for the switch LED positive wire. One for always on, and one for off during deep sleep. You can find the diagrams in the manual on pages 14 and 15.

3) I don't like to solder four wires to any one pad on the board. I like to solder the wires together into a single wire, then solder one wire per pad. Someone else may have a better idea.

4) Welcome to the forums!

I was doubling the amperage since I was driving two LEDs with the single resistor. According to the manual though, the true numbers should have been 0.21ohm, .84W. But now that I've started wiring some of it, the recommendation makes sense. And I'm definitely with you on one wire per pad.

Thanks for the heads-up regarding the power indicator light section. I kind of ignored it since the first paragraph mentions the recharge port and killkey. And thanks for the welcome!