Nano Biscotte v3 Problem - Either Constant Clicking or LED shuts off after a few Seco

[MrArocena]

Hi all,

I'm new to saber building and wanted to add sound to a stunt saber I had. After watching all the tutorial videos and reading everything I could find I jumped in and ordered all the things necessary to add a Nano Biscotte to my saber.
I ordered the pre-wired Nano Biscotte from here (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MW...e-V3-P835.aspx) because I didn't feel comfortable attempting to solder things to that small of a board but can do wires and larger components well.
Anyways, parts arrived earlier this week and got everything wired up according to the instructions found in the manual and tutorial videos but unfortunately it's not working properly.

Problem 1:
If I have everything attached (battery, speakers, LED, switch) to the board the speaker makes a repetitive clicking sound once I connect power and only stops once I remove a battery. The switch has no effect so the clicking sound comes on as soon as the power is connected. LED doesn't turn on either with or without the switch. It seems that the speaker bypasses the board and powers itself? Seems very unlikely as the board is pre-wired and the speaker pads are really far from the power pads.
Conundrum: I looked on these forums to see if anyone else had similar problems and the one solution I found to a similar problem was either to resolder the board to fix any bridging issues (which I don't think is necessary since I bought the board pre-wired with the harness) or the board is bad (which I don't think is the issue either because I read that the pre-wired boards are tested before being sent out).

Problem 2:
If I only have the LED, battery and switch attached the switch can turn the LED on but the LED shuts off after a few seconds. From what I can gather this is caused by too much current flowing through the board which triggers its auto-shutoff (someone had a similar issue on these forums and that was the explanation). I have a 2 ohm (3W) resistor wired from the LED+ as per the manual which I thought was fine. The resistor was used in the stunt saber and the manual says it should be ok. If it's not then that might be something I need to adjust.
Conundrum: The LED module that came with the stunt saber unfortunately has no markings so I couldn't find its data specs. However, when the LED was in the stunt saber, it was powered with a 4xAAA (alkaline so total 6v) battery pack with the 2ohm resistor between the LED and battery and worked fine.

Other relavent info:
Nothing blew up so no magic smoke emanated from the board.

I am using the 4xAAA battery pack from the stunt saber but only have 3 AAA batteries in it with a wire connecting the + and - ends on the 4th battery space (effectively a dummy cell I think). So I should be providing ~4.5V to the board which is well within the design specs of the Nano Biscotte. Sadly I don't have a DMM at the moment so I can't test the current coming from the battery pack. I haven't attempted 4x NiMH batteries yet (was too late at night to out and get batteries) but I don't see that making much of a difference unless the wire I am running from the + to - draws too much current/doesn't provide enough resistance.

The speaker is the 28mm Premium speaker from here (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pr...eaker-P77.aspx). Not sure if it might be damaged or not as it makes the clicking sound whether the diaphragm is touched or not. The magnet in the speaker did attract some random small metal parts to it while I had the speaker mount sitting on my desk so I hope that didn't damage it.

The LED is from an Ultrasaber Sunrider's Destiny LED which I thought was this (http://www.dx.com/p/3w-led-emitter-o...0#.WQSoDPkrKUk) as I read that's what they usually use but upon dissassembling the LED module it turns out my LED is not that. Still an RBG LED but I couldn't find it on any of the electronics sites I searched.
Here's a picture of it though.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/p0actw9y62...75148.jpg?dl=0
I suspect the green + and - are the pads that are connected but have no label. I did think about wiring the Red + and - to the FoC feature of the board as I think I can do that with this LED.

Anyways, I'm stumped at the moment on how to proceed. If anyone else has had issues like this or advice on what else I could test I'd be very appreciative.

My next step is to resolder the board myself but that kind of defeats the entire purpose of ordering the pre-wired board.