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Thread: "inner" core question

  1. #1

    Default "inner" core question

    Hi everyone. I've seen a few saber builds where people have designed what appears to be aluminum "inner" cores; I've included a pic of what I'm trying to describe. My question is; is there something in the TCSS store that could be used to create something like that?

    G-Core.jpg

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2

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    I may be wrong but I don't think they do. I had very little luck finding tube with the perfect 1.25" OD but I have a lathe so I am able to turn thick walled tube to the ideal OD. Goodman made build logs for the saber you pictured but I believe a lot of his builds are turned from solid stock.

    Greenie

  3. #3

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    You can build a normal MHS saber with removable sleeve material. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...l-12-P468.aspx

    The tricky part is figuring out how to handle switches and other items that protrude from the core.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  4. #4

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    That sort of crystal chamber / core is generally done by the more advanced practitioners of our craft. There are chassis parts in the store, but they're functional, not as artistic as what you've referenced. You could, as Silver Serpent suggests, build a core from MHS parts and overlay that with shroud material, but I think you're still going to run into the difficulty that you're not getting the artistic core you wish.

    My suggestion? Either start learning metalworking (the mini-lathe site is a decent primer on what's involved in that) or seek out one of the custom sabersmiths who are willing to do such work. Otherwise, perhaps starting with a walk instead of a sprint might be in order?

  5. #5

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    Goodman's stuff is created using layers of material inside mhs. I suggest starting with 1.25 OD tube (the sinktube he sells here may work) and then making the cuts you need with a dremel.

  6. #6

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    1.25" sink tube should fit. It's not always a held to great precision, but it's cheap and available at your local hardware store, so you can always simply test fit pieces. There are also 1.25" pvc "sink tubes"

  7. #7
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbkuma View Post
    1.25" sink tube should fit. It's not always a held to great precision, but it's cheap and available at your local hardware store, so you can always simply test fit pieces. There are also 1.25" pvc "sink tubes"
    I can vouch for that. Although, a word of warning. Because of the thin walls, the pipe will go out of round when you cut parts out. You'll have to "massage" back into shape so that it will fit into the hilt.

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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by darth_chasm View Post
    I can vouch for that. Although, a word of warning. Because of the thin walls, the pipe will go out of round when you cut parts out. You'll have to "massage" back into shape so that it will fit into the hilt.

    Thanks guys. This was an idea I had for my second build

    @Darth Chasm, that pic you posted is exactly what I wanted to do . Do you mind if I hit you up on PM with a few questions about some of the basics?

  9. #9
    Sith Warrior darth_chasm's Avatar
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    Don't mind at all.
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  10. #10

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    If you can source tube with the appropriate OD you're half way there already. Sink tube is great but can be a little bit thin which may be a problem if any kind of threading is required. The switch function is the main challenge then it's all down to artistic and skill level, which we cannont presume based on your time here or the number of Sabers you've built.
    'Revelation' was my third saber (I still consider myself a noob) but
    I wanted the challenge of building a fully removable working chassis.

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