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Thread: "inner" core question

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenie View Post
    If you can source tube with the appropriate OD you're half way there already. Sink tube is great but can be a little bit thin which may be a problem if any kind of threading is required. The switch function is the main challenge then it's all down to artistic and skill level, which we cannont presume based on your time here or the number of Sabers you've built.
    'Revelation' was my third saber (I still consider myself a noob) but
    I wanted the challenge of building a fully removable working chassis.
    Greens to the rescue!!! I'm thinking I might give it a shot using a PVC sink tube for starters. I'll do a Visio drawing of what I have in my mind; that way everyone can give additional suggestions/advice etc.

    Thanks again Greenie

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by darth.maledous View Post
    Greens to the rescue!!! I'm thinking I might give it a shot using a PVC sink tube for starters. I'll do a Visio drawing of what I have in my mind; that way everyone can give additional suggestions/advice etc.

    Thanks again Greenie
    No problem. Go for it. The good thing with PVC is the various sizes, fittings and couplers generally fit inside each other. Easily adaptable for securing all the electronics. Also, keeps the weight down unless, like me, you like a heavy saber
    I'll be watching this thread. Good luck dude.


  3. #13
    Jedi Initiate hapki's Avatar
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    I use lots of layers in my sabers, though I haven't really made anything nearly as awesome as the picture you posted. I get various sizes of aluminum tube from onlinemetals.com. I can't remember what size it is, but I get aluminum tubes that fit perfectly within the MHS hilts. I also get tubes that fit inside that one to make various layers. The hard part is working around switches.

  4. #14
    Jedi Initiate hapki's Avatar
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    .... I have to remind myself to calculate wall thickness, inner diameter, and outer diameter. I like using thicker wall tubes, because it leaves a clean edge. Thicker wall tubes just feel better.

  5. #15

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    Great question. I'll be watching with interest.

  6. #16

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    If you go to arklightarsenal site there are build logs showing how he developed each core, like the one you posted. Lot of it could be done without a lathe, just depends on how adept you are at workarounds and how much you're willing to grunt and sweat.

  7. #17

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    Thanks for all of the input guys. It'll be a while before I start working on this, as I still have my first build, Shadow Hand, to complete. Then in May, I have my Starkiller build to work on. Hopefully by the end middle of June I can begin on this. I'm thinking, however, that I might grab a 5" extension from the shop and some PVC to play around with in the meantime. BTW, did I say how much I love this forum?? You guys are GREAT!!!

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by hapki View Post
    I use lots of layers in my sabers, though I haven't really made anything nearly as awesome as the picture you posted. I get various sizes of aluminum tube from onlinemetals.com. I can't remember what size it is, but I get aluminum tubes that fit perfectly within the MHS hilts. I also get tubes that fit inside that one to make various layers. The hard part is working around switches.
    Thanks hapki. I checked out onlinemetals.com and they have a huge selection of materials. Now as for wall thickness, what should I be looking for?

  9. #19
    Jedi Initiate hapki's Avatar
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    I like to use the 0.058" wall 6061 T6 tube. I've used a thinner wall, but I think I get better results with the 0.058".

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by hapki View Post
    I like to use the 0.058" wall 6061 T6 tube. I've used a thinner wall, but I think I get better results with the 0.058".
    Thanks again hapki.

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