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Thread: My first MHS build: Brimstone

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  1. #1

    Default My first MHS build: Mako

    brimstone.jpg

    The gray will be polished aluminum, TCSS shroud material. This is only a semblance of my design. I'm not good at drawing. I can see what it will look like, but cannot portray it as well. Red will be subdued and smoked out. Black will be flat.

    I have ordered my hilt parts, will order electronics as paychecks permit.
    Hilt Parts List:
    1 of: MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 2
    1 of: Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack
    1 of: 12mm AV switch bezel for MHSV1
    1 of: 12mm Anti Vandal Momentary Red Ring Switch
    2 of: Star thermal tape pad - Tri LED
    1 of: Recharge port hole service (Style 1)
    1 of: Machine recessed 12mm AV switch hole
    1 of: MHS Sleeve material - 18"
    1 of: MPS Insert style 1
    1 of: Double male with slots style 3
    1 of: MPS Pommel style 8
    1 of: Hilt Style 1 (7" Double female threaded connector)
    1 of: 1.2" Double Female
    1 of: MHS choke style 1 short
    1 of: MPS Clip

    Chassis Parts List:
    1 of: Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module
    1 of: MHS speaker mount V5 - For 28mm Speakers
    1 of: 2W 28mm Bass Speaker
    2 of: Chassis Disc style 3 with holes
    4 of: 2" Brass 3/16" OD spacer
    10 of: 1/2" Brass 3/16" OD spacer
    8 of: 3/4" Brass 3/16" OD spacer
    8 of: 1" Brass 3/16" OD spacer
    3 of: Acrylic Chassis Disc for NB and 18500/18650 pack - S3 (Clear)
    4 of: Stainless 4-40 all thread
    4 of: Brass 4-40 Hex nut
    1 of: Brass 3/16" OD tube
    1 of: Kill plug style 2
    Plus various and sundry brass greeblies and doohickies from Home Crepot.

    Full Disclosure: I will be using NEC Spark Color 2. I know that TCSS board users predominantly use Plector Labs Boards. I will try a Plector Labs Board in my next build (Graflex); however, I know NEC boards from 2 previous installs on the Hasbro Kylo Ren Lightsabers. So I was afraid to leave my comfort zone. I do want to get to know Plector Boards for possible future ventures.


    This is MHS. I plan on this being RGB with a Crystal Chamber that matches blade color. The crystal chamber will be exposed near the top of the emitter in its own chassis system. I'll wait until TCSS gets their laser back up and running to use TCSS chassis parts. Will probably radiatorize the crystal chamber. Using a clear quartz crystal with 5mm RGB. I am going to use a 18650 pack and recharge port. The downfall, and necessary evil of my Kylo conversions were removable battery for quick change outs at cons. Its a downfall, because the shuttling in and out of the chassis puts great strain on the wiring system. When I button this one up, I want it to remain buttoned up, unless I desire to change things around on the SD card. I did some color blending on my second iteration of Kylo, but this will be my first RGB. I'm very excited to get this build going.

    I have been stalking this board forever. I recently converted 2 Kylo Ren Hasbro sabers. Those conversions were each different with different aspects on each. This build is fairly complex; however, nothing more difficult than I already accomplished in both my conversions. This will be a slow build process, but I will try to document updates in this thread.

    Wish me luck. If I can pull this off, I'll be pretty proud of my skillsets.

    Tom
    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 02-05-2018 at 04:38 AM. Reason: Added parts list

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  2. #2

    Default

    Good luck then!
    Join me, join the dark side!

  3. #3

    Default

    Does anyone know what that micro tactile switch on the PLI at TCSS does? Is it an auxiliary switch, or does it activate the PLI. Thinking about putting that box and PLI near back of hilt...thinking about it.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  4. #4

    Default

    It's just a momentary switch that is pre-installed on the PLI board. You can use it anywhere you'd use a momentary switch. It doesn't interact with the PLI (unless you wire it to do so).
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #5

    Default

    Thank you for the info on the PLI. I'm basically trying to do as many different skillsets as possible with each different saber I work on. Adding a PLI will be new, seems like a cool feature, and the box will add some needed dimension to this fairly plain looking hilt. I'll be more adventurous with future builds. I didn't mean to post this in the tutorial thread. Should have posted it in the MHS Build Section. My apologies, move if necessary.

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

  6. #6

    Default

    I ordered my chassis parts today for the sound card and crystal chamber. I also ordered my battery. Made a run to the home depot to pick up a lot of brass trinkets to use as spacers and such. I also ran to Michaels, and picked out some art crystals, I have various sorts. Some with tons of facets and some that look rough. Once I get the saber, and get a feel for how its going to look, I'll pick out the right crystal. Next paycheck, which is next week, I'll order all the electronics.

    I expect my MHS parts tomorrow or Thursday. Once they come in, I'll clean/prep threads, and start painting and creating the design for the shrouds. I'll have a shroud on the main emitter, and a shroud on the body. Hard to find brass washers that will work to radiator out the crystal chamber. I'm going to try a marine store tomorrow, and local hardware stores. I am looking forward to putting into the saber what is in my mind. My picture does what I'm envisioning no justice. Some of you guys are great at rendering, whereas, I am not.

    I'm so excited!

    Tom

    "Mistakes are our greatest teacher."

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