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Thread: Going nuts with my Tri Cree

  1. #1

    Default Going nuts with my Tri Cree

    Hello,

    Like the title says, I'm going nuts with my tri cree. I've been trying to solder my wires on it, but, they won't stick. I've tried so much that I think I fried my LED.

    Any pointers in what I'm doing wrong?

    Thank you,

    Eric
    TK/IC/TI/ID-37427

  2. #2

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    They are tricky. The heatsink works well.

    Try using leaded solder. A good pre-tinned solder tip a bit hotter than usual. Also try pre-heating and tinning the wire tip.

    I don't have seperate flux, I only use the finest rosin core I can find.

    I hope you didn't burn it out by heat alone. They aren't cheap.

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks, I kept my soldering iron at 475F.

    I will try and get some leaded solder. I don't know the type that I have honestly.
    TK/IC/TI/ID-37427

  4. #4

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    Hopefully, you don't already have it attached to the heatsink.
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  5. #5

    Default

    That would be my first guess. If you've already attached it to the heatsink, it'll be nearly impossible to solder wires onto the LED pads.

    I run my iron at around 550F when I'm doing most of my work.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    That would be my first guess. If you've already attached it to the heatsink, it'll be nearly impossible to solder wires onto the LED pads.

    I run my iron at around 550F when I'm doing most of my work.
    Oh wow, I was scared going hotter than 450F. I though I was "ballsy" at 475F.

    And it's not attached to the heat sink. It's in a plastic covered clamp.
    TK/IC/TI/ID-37427

  7. #7

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    Nah. Back when the LEDEngin LEDs were all the rage, I'd bump mine up over 600 to solder those. Those LED stars had a great heatsink built in, and it was nearly impossible to solder them without a really hot iron.

    It's a bit counterintuitive, but a hotter iron is LESS likely to burn your components. Since the iron is hotter, you spend less time with it touching your components. There's actually less heat damage that way.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  8. #8

    Default

    Managed to get everything soldered.

    Came to try it, was proud of myself, I have about 10x 18650 being a former "vaper" and they were all charged. But, all my batteries are flat top, they don't make contact. Wont have batteries before Monday...Now I'm sad lol
    TK/IC/TI/ID-37427

  9. #9

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    I just recieved the parts for my saber today and started with the led... So I soldered the pads and after 5 tries they would finally hold. But I am scared to short circuit the leds because some of the neg wires are near to touching the copper part of the sinkpad. I made them a little longer to get more to stick on the pads, but well... I can't get it right. Btw the wires don't touch it yet and the solder makes them quite stiff to stay away from that, but of course, after duelling it might move...
    Join me, join the dark side!

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