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Thread: What are my options?

  1. #1

    Default What are my options?

    Hey guys! I'm building my first saber, and I have a few questions based on the features I know I want. Here's the features:


    • Blade Builder sound board
    • Rechargeable battery preferably with a recharge port
    • Orange blade
    • Combat ready
    • Rugged chassis construction


    I already have the saber itself. The parts list is as follows:

    Gavyn's Blade.jpg




    And my questions are this:


    1. Will the MHS chassis parts fit into the ribbed extension piece?
    2. Is it possible to have a rechargeable battery with a Blade Builder board or is any port-compatible battery too powerful?
    3. Is it really necessary to use a transistor with the Blade Builder board? I've seen some designs that have one and some that don't.
    4. A latching switch is just a momentary switch that "latches" right? If I click it on and then back off again will that work the same as a momentary switch?


    Thanks for reading this over. Any and all help is much appreciated.

  2. #2

    Default

    1. Some will, most won't. See these: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ac...-S10-P857.aspx

    2. Yes. Just be sure your battery pack voltage is compatible with the Blade Builder board.

    3. Not sure. If it's anything like the older budget boards I've used in the past, then I'd definitely use the transistor. It certainly won't hurt anything to use one, and they're not expensive.

    4. Maybe. Some latching switches can be pressed in *most* of the way to activate, but without clicking them into a locked on/off position. If your particular board needs a momentary switch, just order a momentary switch. It'll save some headaches.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

    Default

    So most of your questions are about using a blade builder sound board which I don't have expience with sorry. Regarding the ribbed section, it has an inner diameter of 1.15" and there are chassis discs with a diameter of 1.14 that are there to fit this part and others like it. Your other parts are going to have an inner diameter of 1.25" and thus will need other chassis discs. And obviously this size difference means your saber will not be able to be completely assembledwith the chassis sliding in from the pommel. Instead you will need to screw the parts on once your chassis is in place.

    Regarding the switch, as far as I understand it yes double clicking a latching switch is similar to a momentary. But, this is really not a good idea and you should buy the correct switch.

  4. #4

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    Alright so it looks like I'll have to forgo the recharge port then as most of my saber is the smaller diameter. I imagine I can't be drilling holes through threads either.

    What if I use this battery holder and slide that into a handmade PVC chassis, leaving wire enough to just screw off the pommel, pull out the pack, and switch out the batteries? What's the battery life like on 4 AAA's?

    Again, thanks for the help.

  5. #5

    Default

    Drilling through threads is not recommended for beginners.

    4 AAA batteries? Depending on the LED you're using, somewhere around 15-30 minutes in my experience.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  6. #6

    Default

    Yeah that's not ideal. I'm planning on using the Tri-Cree to get the orange.

    So I'm considering a couple of things now.

    1. Go with the MHS chassis parts with metal chassis discs clamping the assembly on either end of the ribbed section. The issue I see here is replacing/recharging the battery will likely require dismantling the entire chassis.
    2. Build a pvc chassis with a recharge port mounted inside in hilt facing the pommel. This way I just have to unscrew the pommel, unclip the speaker, and plug in the charger. I just cant quite think of a way to secure such a chassis securely. Maybe a chassis disc mounted at the top?

    I know I'm definitely happy with the design of the saber so I don't want to have to switch out the ribbed section just to make a normal chassis work.

  7. #7

    Default

    Have you considered a pommel mounted recharge port?

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MP...le-6-P263.aspx

    You will have to make a few grooves down the side of your speaker holder (to run wires) and ensure that your speaker is far enough back, but it is definitely doable and would not change the dimensions of your saber.

  8. #8

    Default

    Not sure why you can't go with a recharge port. You could put in the pommel with insert 6 - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MP...le-6-P263.aspx

    You may end up needing to shave the speaker mount down a bit to fit into the ribbed section if you don't have room in the pommel, but its still very doable.

    edit: nurse beat me to it.
    Last edited by minorhero; 03-03-2017 at 10:15 AM.

  9. #9

    Default

    I currently have the d-clip insert in the pommel. I probably should have added that earlier.

  10. #10

    Default

    As nice as it is to have the d-clip in the pommel, a recharge port is a pretty structural part of the saber and the quality of life improvement of having one vs having to take apart your saber every time you need to either remove a rechargable battery and replace or replace AAs etc is so large that you definitely need to reconsider your options. What it comes down to is this. You will want a recharge port, it should be either in the pommel, or somewhere else on the body of the saber, or you can have it internally somewhere so long as it is very easy to get to. If you are going to put it on the body of the saber that would imply you either are going to have the tooling and expertise to do it yourself or are going to have holes for one of the activation boxes put in and then you will also need the activation box as well.

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