MPP 2.0 Basic Install, tiny accuracy upgrades, Etc. (Pic log included!)

[darth_chasm]

Dude, sorry. My fault for not being more specific. In Photobucket when you hover over the little menu icon on an image thumbnail in your album you see the word share. Click that and a window will overlay on the screen. On the right are links for sharing. For a forum such as this you'll want to use either the IMG or IMG Thumb link. Bottom two in the image below.

Oh, and you can link more than one in a post. No need to double or triple post.

Screen Shot 2017-03-06 at 11.12.16 PM.jpg

[RogueSyProject]

Here I had to bask in the MPP glory all new and shiny before I smugged the crap out of it. http://share.photobucket.com/sharepr...hp?id=NjI2NjU=

I can see we this install has not been recorded for guidance because it was really simple so simple it hurt and felt good at the same time. So I started by trying my best to mock line up my ESB style grips by using the clamp as a reference which worked with the m3 tape still on but after it was removed I messed up by the tiniest amounts each grip (eh things happen I don't really notice it much after playing with it lol). http://share.photobucket.com/sharepr...hp?id=NjI2Njc=

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Here the grips don't look so bad at all actually from this view here.

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It came to my attention that these sockets were super small like I had to go to home depot to get a new key set for around 8 dollars just to get a 1/16 key for the two side screws and the switch box screws as well. The screws aren't bad to mess with if you make sure to align the inner core and outer body correctly.

http://share.photobucket.com/sharepr...hp?id=NjI2NzI=

This is the under bore of the inner core (where the threads are.) Which allows for installers to utilize the 1" led module if you can't get at 7/8" led module. Later I'll pitch an idea for led retention for the 1" under bore set up (should you want to try it as well.)

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Here is with the led as DC has shown above.

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Here I show the v6 speaker mount butt all the ways up to the middle section just below the inner core. Decent wire space resides there too.

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As a precautionary step I took some electrical tape and lined the inner bore's switch channel running my exacto knife through to clean it up a bit just to be sure there is no shorting of any kind.

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I just noticed now that I covered my 10/32 hole without noticing noicee..

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Just the switch in the switch channel on top of the tape.

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Be sure that when putting your by mount together with the battery holder that you shave or sand all four corners down to ensure proper fit met. I put a very silly light blue ribbon in to be able pop the battery out.

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Fed all my wires through the back or top of the v6 mount prior to wiring my NB so that I could get a nice wire curl and good length.

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I think this is the prettiest I've soldered my wires XD.

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And here's the ugly IMO XD the led and switch wires I'd rather have a little extra then to have none.

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Now here is the little step that DC and myself were speaking about it's the lip that is the inner most one that is reflecting the shine.

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And lastly some glam shot all in one for you all (curiosity of my wife of course. The install shots where mine.)

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This one holds my new profile pic XD.

http://share.photobucket.com/sharepr...hp?id=NjI3MDI=

Now before I end this there maybe a spot that 1" module users can drill and tap into for either a 8/32 or a 10/33 I want to give this a try to see but what do you all think? It would be right where the bottom of the bore is before the very end basic in the channel.

Thank you all for checking this post out I still have the ESB wires coming in soon (idk when exactly.), The lever box lever actually broke off from me tightening it took too much but it basically looks like the ESB style so I'm ohk with it, and lastly just blackening the silver blocks on the sides of the clamp. If anything else let me know thanks!

RogueSyProject XD

[RogueSyProject]

Dude, sorry. My fault for not being more specific. In Photobucket when you hover over the little menu icon on an image thumbnail in your album you see the word share. Click that and a window will overlay on the screen. On the right are links for sharing. For a forum such as this you'll want to use either the IMG or IMG Thumb link. Bottom two in the image below.

Oh, and you can link more than one in a post. No need to double or triple post.

Screen Shot 2017-03-06 at 11.12.16 PM.jpg

Crap lol DC my bad I am posting this from my phone so I didn't catch the post you made. Photobucket is weird on the phone so I tired making due and also realized I should probably group the photos too XD! I am unable to use the computer for tonight (wife's birthday so I'm spending time with here on my Leash lol jk.) The YouTube video will come soon as I have a gaming channel I still have to edit the video Wednesday. Due to the desk I could record the install process Oldy so I am very sorry but it is really easy I promise.

[OLDY]

Crap lol DC my bad I am posting this from my phone so I didn't catch the post you made. Photobucket is weird on the phone so I tired making due and also realized I should probably group the photos too XD! I am unable to use the computer for tonight (wife's birthday so I'm spending time with here on my Leash lol jk.) The YouTube video will come soon as I have a gaming channel I still have to edit the video Wednesday. Due to the desk I could record the install process Oldy so I am very sorry but it is really easy I promise.

Thanks Rogue.
Looking forward to it!
Your photobucket links aren't working properly as others may have pointed out.
I think you are pasting wrong url for photos.

[RogueSyProject]

Thanks Rogue.
Looking forward to it!
Your photobucket links aren't working properly as others may have pointed out.
I think you are pasting wrong url for photos.

They worked for my wife lol aww man well hopefully the links and/or images I "shared" at least pop up on the webpage version of Photobucket because if not I have re-upload all the pictures and update the links. Today is the wife's birthday so I wont be able to do that today unfortunately same with the youtube video. I will update asap thank you!

[OLDY]

They worked for my wife lol aww man well hopefully the links and/or images I "shared" at least pop up on the webpage version of Photobucket because if not I have re-upload all the pictures and update the links. Today is the wife's birthday so I wont be able to do that today unfortunately same with the youtube video. I will update asap thank you!

Rogue, I am sorry. The fault was in my web browser.
Ad blocker somehow blocked the images on Photobucket page.
I can see all the photos now.

[RogueSyProject]

Oh ok cool nooice now was that a bit helpful the images or? I think your going to have a great time building your graflex I really enjoyed messing with my MPP but as I stated before I have to try out that method I mention for retaining the 1" led modules on the bottom bore. I also for got to mention I need to drill and tap the top screw for either 10/32 or 8/32 for blade retention because as of right now blade retention is non existent XD.

[OLDY]

Oh ok cool nooice now was that a bit helpful the images or? I think your going to have a great time building your graflex I really enjoyed messing with my MPP but as I stated before I have to try out that method I mention for retaining the 1" led modules on the bottom bore. I also for got to mention I need to drill and tap the top screw for either 10/32 or 8/32 for blade retention because as of right now blade retention is non existent XD.

Yes, it gave me some ideas of how you went about it. Thank you.
I knew V6 was the way to go! Glad to hear you had a fun time building this saber.
I haven't given much thoughts on blade retention either.
I think for a Gralfex 2.0, grass eye or the whole above it could be used as screw whole to retain the blade.

I am not familiar with MPP hilt but will you have to drill a hole on the hilt itself?
That could be a hassle. Let me know how you did it once you've done it.

[RogueSyProject]

Yes, it gave me some ideas of how you went about it. Thank you.
I knew V6 was the way to go! Glad to hear you had a fun time building this saber.
I haven't given much thoughts on blade retention either.
I think for a Gralfex 2.0, grass eye or the whole above it could be used as screw whole to retain the blade.

I am not familiar with MPP hilt but will you have to drill a whole on the hilt itself?
That could be a hassle. Let me know how you did it once you've done it.

I didn't know that the Gralfex was around the v6's diameter due to the fact that everyone uses different chassises or make their own cool custom made chassis but, it's good to know that I could use the v6 on the Graflex too. I want to get deeper into making my own chassis and stuff I just can't ATM so with that being said apologies for not getting the youtube review video of mine up I have been busy but I should be able to get to it today or tomorrow! and about the hole on the MPP I will have to drill one hole at the bottom bore for led retention so i'll see about that.

[OLDY]

I didn't know that the Gralfex was around the v6's diameter due to the fact that everyone uses different chassises or make their own cool custom made chassis but, it's good to know that I could use the v6 on the Graflex too. I want to get deeper into making my own chassis and stuff I just can't ATM so with that being said apologies for not getting the youtube review video of mine up I have been busy but I should be able to get to it today or tomorrow! and about the hole on the MPP I will have to drill one hole at the bottom bore for led retention so i'll see about that.

Rogue. No pressure on your video. Do it as your leisure.
Yes, almost everyone else is about 3D printed chassis and crystal chamber when it comes to Graflex.
I wanted my first saber to be very simple and heavy duty so I chose to go with the speaker mount.
I am very happy that you've proven that concept.
My TCSS parts are still stuck in US customs. I don't know when I can start the assembly.