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Thread: OWK Korbanth Hilt Build LED Heatsink Question...

  1. #1

    Default OWK Korbanth Hilt Build LED Heatsink Question...

    Hello guys... I just received my OWK Korbanth hilt and I am trying to figure out how I will be able to mount the LED onto the hilt.. This hilt is so thin that i am having trough figuring out which Heatsink i will be able to use.. I think the internal is a 7/8 size.. and Have no luck locating a heatsink of such size..

    Has anyone successfully built this hilt?? what Heatsink did you use? where can I buy it?

    Secondly I am having trouble trying to figure out which LED to use? i am torn between RB/RB/W or RB/B/W any recommendations to make it as screen accurate as possible, color wise that is.

    THANKS!!!

  2. #2

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    I've got one on the way as well - with a 7/8" (.875") heatsink and a B/B/W Tri-Cree, both from TCSS. I can see that the 7/8" heatsinks are out of stock right now - but they'll probably be back soon.

    The OWK will only fit a 7/8" heatsink, even if you want to use a 1" blade. Shameem mentioned it in the comments of a Facebook post about his first OWK install:
    https://www.facebook.com/ShameemCust...86256501439761

    I've heard that wiring the switch will be tricky because the predrilled hole for the wires run through a threaded section of the hilt, is that something you've noticed?
    Last edited by kornum; 02-24-2017 at 01:51 AM.

  3. #3

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    Thanks for the reply!! Well looking at the hilt closely I did see that aswell, but when I screwed the bottom part of the hilt to the emitter I did see there is a little bit of room in order to be able to fit the Wires I haven't really added the switch on the hilt to see if there is enough room.... I will try to do that tonight and upload a picture ..
    Last edited by jedikirk; 02-24-2017 at 12:45 PM.

  4. #4

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    Here is the picture of the hilt parts all screwed in all the way.. this is the available space for the switch wires..IMG_3475.jpg

  5. #5

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    This is the LED holder from the shop that fits.
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/87...ole-P1138.aspx
    For a speaker you can use the 20mm round speaker from the shop , or an oval Railmasters type speaker. I have an older all steel version and it's a tight fit for the electronics. The best soundcard fit is the Nano Biscotti.
    Don Mac.
    Sith Happens

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by jedikirk View Post
    Here is the picture of the hilt parts all screwed in all the way.. this is the available space for the switch wires..IMG_3475.jpg
    I just noticed when messing around with mine that the switch PCB doesn't even fit in there because of the threads on the non-anodized part. Any ideas on how to get around that? Honestly sometimes I wonder how oversights like this even happen when designing these kits.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by NanoRex View Post
    I just noticed when messing around with mine that the switch PCB doesn't even fit in there because of the threads on the non-anodized part. Any ideas on how to get around that? Honestly sometimes I wonder how oversights like this even happen when designing these kits.

    You just have to sand the PCB board... and get rid of the little edges.. I watched Shameems Review and he mentioned you would need to sand the PCB board a bit..

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzI7Zgwz8eo&t=216s <---- link to the review..

    around 5:10

  8. #8

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    Even after sanding off those parts, it doesn't fit. The threads on the non-anodized part get in the way. I asked Shameem the same question and he said he ended up cutting down the PCB even further so that it would fit, which would work, but it seems silly to me that such a design flaw was overlooked.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by jedikirk View Post
    Here is the picture of the hilt parts all screwed in all the way.. this is the available space for the switch wires..IMG_3475.jpg
    That looks like plenty of room, thanks for sharing! If only the Danish Customs would process the package a bit faster..

    Regarding the PCB: these Chinese kits always seem to need some minor adjusting - it's the trade off for a decent price. I just assembled a K4, where the two switches were connected on the PCB - which I didn't discover until I had the saber fully assembled and the auxiliary switch kept turning off the power...

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by kornum View Post
    That looks like plenty of room, thanks for sharing! If only the Danish Customs would process the package a bit faster..

    Regarding the PCB: these Chinese kits always seem to need some minor adjusting - it's the trade off for a decent price. I just assembled a K4, where the two switches were connected on the PCB - which I didn't discover until I had the saber fully assembled and the auxiliary switch kept turning off the power...
    Yeah definitely... I am still waiting for TCSS to re stock the Heatsink needed for this hilt.. so I haven't even started the built yet... although the picture shows there is room.. last night when I was trying to fit the switch in the little socket I was thinking to my self how would I be able to put the shroud over the switch.. I think you need to make sure the switch goes in the hole while the shroud is on.. I need to experiment with it a little more in order to figure it out exactly.. seems difficult but not impossible, I am sure we will all get our hilts done.!!! once you guys finish post some pictures up on this page,

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