Illuminated AV switch and a Pico Crumble board? Wiring options.

[Starganderfish]

Hi all, looking for some noob help regarding wiring. Building a saber for my daughters sixth birthday. I'm using a tri-cree LED and a Pico Crumble board. The crumble seems like a great, tough, cost-effective board that has the benefit of limited colour change ability, so perfect for this kind of build. Unfortunately it lacks any accent LED pads. I'm really keen to set up the saber with a lighted momentary switch, as I love that effect. But how?
Options
1 - wire the led in the switch to one of the main led pads. This will light the switch but only when that die is in operation. Wire to the blue pad and the switch will be unlit when the blade is red, green or orange.
2 - wire the LED on the switch directly to the common positive wire coming off the battery, and the Negative from the recharge port that goes back to the board. In this scenario the switch is lit as soon as the kill key is removed and stays lit. This kind of defeats the purpose of both the switch lighting and negates the Crumble's power saving features
3 - it's possible to buy true RGB Momentary switches. Not the ones the TCSS sells which have a single pair of LED pins and rotate colours constantly but a real RGB with separate pins for each colour. Wire one of these so each colour runs off each of the main led pads and you're set. Unfortunately the hilt I'm using only has 12mm switch holes and the smallest I can find RGB switches is 16mm. I would need to drill and tap the existing hole to 16mm, which I'm not sure I'm up to with my limited equipment.
4 - can I run a wire off each of the three LED pads, join to a single wire that runs to the switch led? You can buy 12v illuminated switches. In theory the combined voltage would vary from 3.7 to 11v depending on how many dies are running.
BUT - Is that even how that works? If only one or two dies are running (ie: red and green) will the current flow down the blue wire and back into the sound board, frying it? I have a lot of trouble working out the fundamental concepts of current flow and the like and i'm 50/50 in my head as to how this scenario would actually work!
If I haven't completely screwed up with current flow, and that IS how it works, do these 12v switches actually run properly off 12v or do they just contain a whopping big resistor to drop the voltage down to a safe level for the led? Would a dynohm resitor work to control the variation in the voltage running to the switch?
How ridiculously off base am I with option 4 here?
And is there another 5th option I've overlooked to get consistent performance from a lighted switch on a Pico Crumble board?

Apologise in advance if my questions are ... dumb...

[Cern]

I believe i read that the AV switch should be hooked into the pad for the main LED. A quick search on the manual did not give a conclusive answer though

[jbkuma]

Go to the plecter website and get the updated manual. There are two accent options.

[Starganderfish]

Frickin' A!! Thanks for that. I had no idea the Pico Crumble had an accent pad!!
...huh, looking back at the version of the manual I had on file, there was no mention of the accent pad. Must be a new feature or something.

Nice. That should resolve things for me perfectly.

[jbkuma]

I only know because I did a PC build a month ago, then I went to the PL site to grab the manual to find something else and discovered the added pages! I ended up taking back the saber to tear it apart and redo it properly.

The no need for a kill key feature is really nice, especially when you have it wired up correctly to take advantage of that!

[Cern]

Dude sweet! Working on a pair of sabers using Crumbles and was wondering how to attach the AV switches

thank you!

Are all 5 of those pads accent for LEDs?

[jbkuma]

There is a "deep sleep" similar to the NB, but the easier if the two (unlike the NB) and an always on pad. If you use the deep sleep you really don't even need a kill key. That's probably the best feature of the board.