The thing is, I clipped off one post on each side (as I did with my last saber)and wired one pos and the other neg. It sounds like I did it correctly, but still having the same problem. Perhaps just a faulty switch?
The thing is, I clipped off one post on each side (as I did with my last saber)and wired one pos and the other neg. It sounds like I did it correctly, but still having the same problem. Perhaps just a faulty switch?
Like this? This would be the correct way to do it.
2cN5jUp.jpg
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Rotten luck! One of the switches was faulty! When I tried new switches, everything worked fine! Also, I had a low battery! Looks like new ones don't exactly have a full charge! I learn something new every time I build a new saber! The experience is never the same ha!
Just saw this. I had my switches wired with pos post on one side and the neg post diagonally from it.
Actually, you may want to recheck that diagram as I opened up a broken switch I had and both of those posts should be positive and the other side negative and/or vise versa. The reason being is that both the posts that come off the side are connected by a metal stipe, likewise, the other side so when the plunger is pushed it connects the circuit. I just clipped one of the two posts on either side and wired them up that way. Tested it, and it works great!
Diagram is good per all of the tactile switches I've ever used. And that's all I use by the way. Not sure if you have a different type of switch.
There are several simple ways to test the leads with a multimeter. If you set the multimeter to continuity and touch two leads on the same side or diagonally opposite you will hear nothing until the actuator is depressed to close the circuit. Or, you can touch two opposing leads, no actuator depression, and you will hear that they are connected
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To further illustrate.
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Here's what the inside of my tactile switch looks like. Each pair of posts are actually a U-shaped band of metal.
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/...pshd7wilat.png
By looking at it, I assume one side is negative and the other is positive and the plunger has to connect the 2 to complete the circuit. You only need one of the 2 posts on either side to do the trick. I faintly recall Tim of TCSS confirming this. I wired them this way and things worked out fine.
tactile switch diagram.jpg Here's another pic just incase the photobucket didn't work.
Per this image, which two posts did you wire? You can just mark them with red dots that should be fine.Originally Posted by jsummit
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