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Thread: I give up.

  1. #11

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    It doesn't sound like you are, that's why it is important to show pictures of EVERYTHING, as I mentioned earlier. Also, buckpucks do not mix with soundboards.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  2. #12

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    Well lets assume for the moment, that I am trying to wire as the schematic reads, that all that junk about giving up was ill fated humor, and lastly assume I'm not really a chess master ... I think I need to take a quick study at how to read schematics!

    But if I may ask a serious question, does the Crumble require a Tri LED or can my single D LED be wired to just the red pad? I don't have a Tri, unfortunately ... Aha but I have an idea, TCSS sells them!

  3. #13

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    Wait, you used a DynaOhm resistor on your main LED? Those only provide 20mA of current, that's nowhere near enough to light your LED. Those are designed for accent LEDs like the ones in illuminated switches.

    You need to get a standard resistor. See the links in my signature and they'll help you calculate the correct value.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  4. #14

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    The speaker polarity doesn't matter until you start adding a second speaker and then polarity matters. SS has a very valid point about the DynaOhm. 20mA compared to 700 to 1000mA (1Amp) is a huge current difference. while 20mA would provide a nice little jolt its not enough to kill. When I was going through the Navy's electrical/electronic schooling 100mA was enough to kill. 700mA enough to kill seven times over and 1Amp depending on the voltage potential.
    Last edited by DarthSkummelavsky; 02-09-2017 at 02:55 PM.

  5. #15

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    I solder sucked it all clean, rewired everything adding resisters. When I plug in the battery, and push button, I get three beeps now. I was expecting lights and hums. The manual reads three beeps means service mode. But I am not understanding why it always goes into service mode, and how I get out and to the lights and hums. The manual reads that holding the button down while connecting the battery, enters service mode. Holding button down would open the circuit, so for it to automatically go into service mode, I reason that the switch is wired incorrectly making the circuit always open. But I am not understanding how I did this. I am wondering if anyone has seen this before.

  6. #16

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    Can we see the new wiring? Sorry for the bother with it but, just so I can take a crack at it?

  7. #17

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    I know its time consuming...but you've got to take pictures of what you have done and post them. There might be something there that you over looked that you not putting in what you type, because you didn't see it. Hence the reason for the pic's. Post good sized photos....at least 1000 x 750 .jpg's.

    Everyone is here to help you figure it out.

  8. #18

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    I would post a picture if I could. But I've already taken it all apart, de solder and rewired it again. I'm convinced the board is damaged. I can look at a picture in the manual and see components on mine that are out of place. I probably damaged it myself by accident while I was wiring it the first time. Oh well, that's par for da new hobby. I bought a saber from "He who shall remain nameless" *coughs* and its a fun toy to spin and all. But after a few dropped spins, it stopped working. I opened it up, pulled out the insides and was not "Ultra" impressed with all that black tape. Well a little research and a new speaker from TCSS fixed my saber. But the experience left me thinking I could do better than this .... and now I see how difficult this is, I have gained a little more respect for any saber making. I will keep trying as time and resources permit, but I am sure this crumble is damaged beyond repair, and its time to pack up the tools. Thanks for reading. And sorry for the bad jokes.

  9. #19

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    If you message Zook, he can repair your board.

    Do you have a latching switch or a momentary?
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  10. #20

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    I am going to correct your terminology a little. Regardless of whether you are using a momentary (this is the switch type you should be using) or latching switch when you depress the switch button you are actually completing the circuit. Think of it like this, when the draw bridge is up at your castle (switch open position) no traffic (electricity) can flow in and out of the castle. When the draw bridge is down (switch closed position) traffic (electricity) flows. I am posting a simple circuit drawing of a generalization of your circuit. Sorry if this posts seems a little rudimentary but I have no idea what your background is in DC power theory and circuit component functionality.
    It also sound like you may have lifted some parts. Don't feel to bad about that. I have been doing board repair and soldering for 25 years now and I still have to watch my iron temp and how long I let my iron sit on a part. My general rule is if it takes for than 5 sec to solder down a part then the iron has been on the part for too long and damage will start to occur. trust me these sound cards are some of the tightest placed components I have encountered (but that is how they keep them so small).

    Zook is the man. My first sound card build I totally destroyed one of the 0605 series capacitors when I wired up an aux. LED on my momentary switch. I sent Zook a PM with a snapshot of the of my board and within an hour he was able to identify the part for me and give me its values. I was able to obtain the part myself and reattach a new cap to my board.

    Hang in there, don't let this thing get the best of you, take your time and remember lessons learned on what NOT to do as well as what to do next time around. Know that this builder community will do all we can to help you get up and running.

    simple_circuit.jpg
    Last edited by DarthSkummelavsky; 02-13-2017 at 03:01 PM.

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