My First Saber

[Jay-gon Jinn]

i thought the Nano Biscotte Sound Module V3 had FoC with the on board power extender?

It does indeed. Also, in case you are unaware, the minimum input voltage for the pre-wired buck puck is 5 volts. The maximum allowed for the NB sound board is 5.5volts, making the two incompatible, since there is no 5 volt battey solution available. You'll have to learn how to solder if you want to use the sound board in this build, and use resistors.

[GregTheForce]

It does indeed. Also, in case you are unaware, the minimum input voltage for the pre-wired buck puck is 5 volts. The maximum allowed for the NB sound board is 5.5volts, making the two incompatible, since there is no 5 volt battey solution available. You'll have to learn how to solder if you want to use the sound board in this build, and use resistors.

Exactly.

[AlainCrusade]

oh! okay, now I understand what you meant. well I'll have to change that, then.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Looking good to me but it wont be that battle sturdy because you use many small parts and double male connector, so just keep that in mind...

The double male connector is plenty sturdy for where he has it located. the part you may be thinking of is the gender changer, which is fully threaded.

Oh sorry and the corbin style wont be as sturdy as a TCCS style too but well if you dont want to battle it is fine

This information is incorrect...the only difference in the Corbin blade and the TCSS diffused blade is the diffusion material on the inside. The polycarbonate tubing used for both blades is identical. The difference in sturdiness of the blades is when you compare the thin-walled blade to the thick-walled blades. I have been building sabers for over 12 years now, and I can tell you I've never had a reason to use the heavy-grade thick walled blade material in any saber I've built. Unless you plan to "gorilla" duel, you would be fine with the Corbin style thin-walled show blade.

[AlainCrusade]

Thank you, I'll have to learn that skill then.

[GregTheForce]

The double male connector is plenty sturdy for where he has it located. the part you may be thinking of is the gender changer, which is fully threaded.


This information is incorrect...the only difference in the Corbin blade and the TCSS diffused blade is the diffusion material on the inside. The polycarbonate tubing used for both blades is identical. The difference in sturdiness of the blades is when you compare the thin-walled blade to the thick-walled blades. I have been building sabers for over 12 years now, and I can tell you I've never had a reason to use the heavy-grade thick walled blade material in any saber I've built. Unless you plan to "gorilla" duel, you would be fine with the Corbin style thin-walled show blade.

Oops, yes messed that up, thank you for correcting me

[AlainCrusade]

i assume i'll have to change the switch as well, right Jay?

[GregTheForce]

Let me quickly answer this question: no. The nb just works with mom. switches so you are fine.

[AlainCrusade]

Then what do i do with the jst connector for the accent LED in the switch? Thanks again, Greg.

[GregTheForce]

That is a different story, i would strip the JST off and wire it to the accent LED pad on the nb since you have a kill key but I think it was Rob, who managed to wire it to the main LED... I would use the pad