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Thread: Building a boffo saber with sound

  1. #1

    Default Building a boffo saber with sound

    First time poster here, hoping I知 in the correct forum area.
    So, I want to build a hybrid saber using MHS parts, foam inserts for the blade, with functioning sound (no lights.)
    My vision is terrible so no soldering of parts. Any suggestions on whether this is viable and if so what components to start reviewing or what tutorials I should start reading?
    To explain, the associated kids for our larger friends group love saber dueling but get a little too enthusiastic. After a couple minutes someone has bruised fingers and such. I want to build some boffo style sabers but with metal hilts I can customize myself.
    Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2

    Default

    Welcome aboard.

    Check out the modular wiring system section of the store. I can't guarantee no soldering at all as I don't use that system, but it should help. Also use the search bar and search for posts/threads on modular wiring system or MWS.

    With your desired set up, it sounds like you'll only need a sound board, battery, speaker, and momentary switch.

    Good luck!
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by darth_chasm View Post
    Welcome aboard.

    Check out the modular wiring system section of the store. I can't guarantee no soldering at all as I don't use that system, but it should help. Also use the search bar and search for posts/threads on modular wiring system or MWS.

    With your desired set up, it sounds like you'll only need a sound board, battery, speaker, and momentary switch.

    Good luck!
    Will do, thanks.

  4. #4

    Default

    Sounds like a fun project. I don't know if the ID of a pool noodle is large enough to go over one of the blades from the store, but it should be close. Pool noodles come in a variety of colors, so you can still have Jedi vs. Sith battles.

    I second the MWS. You should be able to get MWS versions of everything to use without soldering. Before customizing, the only thing I had to solder was the resistor for the LED, but with no light needed, you won't be doing this. The other big benefit of no LED is the battery life should be amazing with one of the rechargeables from the store.

    Good luck with your project.

  5. #5

    Default

    Thanks.
    I was not intending to put a pool noodle over the standard blade. I was going to wrap it around a wooden dowl, super glue it down, and wrap it in colored glow in the dark tape.
    Base it with a magnet or suction cup and I was hoping to lock it down enough that the blade will stick.
    So, if I use the mws, I don’t have to sodder any connections?
    What would you recommend for a rechargeable setup and sound board?

    Quote Originally Posted by rlobrecht View Post
    Sounds like a fun project. I don't know if the ID of a pool noodle is large enough to go over one of the blades from the store, but it should be close. Pool noodles come in a variety of colors, so you can still have Jedi vs. Sith battles.

    I second the MWS. You should be able to get MWS versions of everything to use without soldering. Before customizing, the only thing I had to solder was the resistor for the LED, but with no light needed, you won't be doing this. The other big benefit of no LED is the battery life should be amazing with one of the rechargeables from the store.

    Good luck with your project.

  6. #6

    Default

    nano biscotte is in stock, and its not only one of the lowest cost offerings, i'ts a really good board all around. 18600 or 18650 batteries with a smart charger are your best options here, 18600 is smaller, 18650 lasts longer. for a simple build the 18650 will give you more fun between charges. Edit: pico crumbles ares in stock too, light or dark, but are limited in options compared to the NB. battery options are the same.
    Last edited by Dark Helmet; 01-27-2017 at 09:26 PM.
    If you refuse to bridge the gap, You will always be on the other side.

  7. #7

    Default

    I was going to wrap it around a wooden dowl, super glue it down, and wrap it in colored glow in the dark tape.
    Base it with a magnet or suction cup and I was hoping to lock it down enough that the blade will stick.
    If I could add my 2 cents. I don't like the idea of a wooden dowel. First it will be heavier than a poly-carb blade so it will have more force (more bruises), second it can break and splinter (dangerous). I would use a thin walled poly-carb blade and cover it with a plumbing pipe insulating tube. its like a pool noodle but thinner and split down one side. I would skip the glow-in-the-dark tape because unless you plan on playing under black lights all the time you will be disappointed. Use fluorescent duct tape. Not sure what the magnet or suction cup is for but it sure won't hold a blade. MHS emitters are milled to accept a 1" poly carb blade. one set screw will hold the blade in tight.

    If you plan on making a lot of them you may want to consider PVC.
    Jay-gon-s-PVC-Hilts-Full-tutorial-on-last-page/page23 That post has a nice walkthrough.

    Another though is make normal light up sabers and provide some armor for the kids (storm trooper plastic or padded gambeson, hockey gloves, etc) I got hit in the carotid artery by a boffer once and I nearly blacked out. Padding is no guarantee you wont get hurt.

  8. #8
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    I'd go with 3/4" sch 40 PVC pipe covered in a foam noodle. I've made many a boffer sword and that's my favorite way to go. The PVC is cheap and light, and 3/4" is pretty rigid at saber blade lengths.
    3/4" has an OD of 1.050, which means you'll need to sand down 2" or so of the end to fit into the emitter socket, but once it fits, a set screw should hold it in place pretty well. It'll be cheaper than using a polycarbonate blade, and a bit lighter as well.

  9. #9

    Default

    Blindfury, the Modular Wiring System will allow you to build 90-95% without soldering. There will be one or two connections that you may need to be able to solder or have someone assist with. Otherwise it's all pretty straight forward. You'll need a sound card, speaker, switch, and battery pack at a minimum.

    Also, as a thought: since you're looking at making the sabers more kid friendly, if you can find white\translucent foam to wrap the polycarbonate blades with, you could still use an LED. In the end you'd only add around $25 per saber for an LED, which would still light up pretty well at night with the right kind of foam. Just my 2 cents.

    Best of luck! And everyone here is happy to help!

  10. #10

    Default

    If soldering is completely out of the question, and your build requires soldering, the store can probably do it for you. Just shoot them an email.

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