Method for Layout

[darth_chasm]

This is a little method I use for drilling and cutting complex designs on cylindrical things like sleeves, shrouds, etc... without expensive layout tools. Well, maybe the computer and software are expensive.

I am sure others do it as well but I thought it would be good to have a dedicated post for it.

I figure out my circumference and height, then draw a rectangle to layout my boundaries. Next, I layout my drill holes and cuts where I want them and label with the drill I want to use. Next, I print the design and apply spray mount to the back of the design. I mark where to line up the paper on my workpiece and adhere the layout.

When done, you can remove the layout with oil (not the best), acetone, Goo Gone, or soaking it in heavy duty cleaner.

For this particular design I had to have holes, slots and cut outs line up with preexisting etching and plating. When I designed the layout i designed it as a third layer on top of the layouts for the etching and plating. The method works very well. Notice in the 2nd and 3rd pics how the little holes line up near perfectly with the pre-etched lines.

[minorhero]

Nicely done!!

[rlobrecht]

I like this technique a lot. Thank you for sharing. Do have any issues with the template tearing when drilling or cutting through it?

You didn't mention what software you are using. Based on the look, I would assume a vector graphics package, or maybe some kind of CAD software. Do you mind sharing what you are using?

[darth_chasm]

Yes, there will always be tearing, but if you're careful you can keep it to a minimum.

I use Illustrator.

[jbkuma]

Nice tutorial. I use illustrator and do similar things with my layout, although I don't go so far as to mark my whole sizes.

One thing I do to help with alignment is make a notch that lines up if I can, or make registration marks if I can't. I also lay the piece on a flat work surface then, using a pencil pressed against the surface, trace a line. That way my starting edge should be square if I line it up off that. Same thing for the etching stencils.

Another thing I've done is etch a small dot to mark drill holes, works even better than using a center punch and guaranteed to stay on target!

[darth_chasm]

I tend to forget, so labeling helps out.

i did similar to line it up on the tube. The designs have a center line that I cut little triangles out of on the top and bottom. Then I found the center point of the tube and drew a line with a square. Finally, lined up the notches and center line of the design to the center line of the tube.

[rlobrecht]

One thing I do to help with alignment is make a notch that lines up if I can, or make registration marks if I can't. I also lay the piece on a flat work surface then, using a pencil pressed against the surface, trace a line. That way my starting edge should be square if I line it up off that. Same thing for the etching stencils.

Another thing I've done is etch a small dot to mark drill holes, works even better than using a center punch and guaranteed to stay on target!

More great ideas. Thank you.

I need to remember these for my next saber.

[RogueSyProject]

Good afternoon SaberSmiths of the forums,

I am incredibly sorry if I post or inquire in the wrong place but, I have searched before asking this question and everyone I find I just see them recommend the 1.2 Ohm 3 Watt resistor that are not in stock ATM. I am in need of very quick assistance please. I have been waiting for the 1.2 Ohm 3 Watt resistors to come in stock for my tri cree r/r/w FOC build but, I grow tired of this due to the fact that I already have all other components needed for my build. Am i 100 percent able to use these 1.2 Ohm 2 Watt resistor that I have found here https://vetco.net/products/1-2-ohm-2...taxon_id=2014? If not could I be directed to a site other the TCSS that has the right resistor for me to purchase, thank you all!

[Strydur]

Use 1ohm 2watt for the reds.
1ohm will over drive it a tad but 1.2 will under drive it a tad so..

[RogueSyProject]

Use 1ohm 2watt for the reds.
1ohm will over drive it a tad but 1.2 will under drive it a tad so..

Oh no Tim already bunk ordered 10! And the only reason for that would be because i calculated the reds to be 1.2 ohm with wattage at or greater than 1.2! I also watched Rob wire the tri cree for FOC and he also say that the 1.2 Ohm 3 Watt was needed for the reds so i figured "Oh crap i was right!?" I mean since i figured i'd maybe need the 1 Ohm 2 Watts i grabbed some but, could i get away with wiring the two reds with the 1 O 2 W that i have and leave the white unresisted since it's only for FOC?