Auxilary Switch thoughts....

**Jin'thal** · 01-22-2017, 01:24 PM

As of today I fear I may have ,made the mistake of many a Padawan before me and gone with an install plan that is too complicated for my current skill level. I will let you all be the judge and hopefully not be judged too harshly.

The Original Plan was to take a Saberforge Disciple hilt and install a NBv3 setup with a removable LED (a suggestion I was given from a member of these forums) for quick swapping out for a different color blade for each sound font. A Light and a Dark side mode for a saber to travel with that was usable for both my sith and jedi costumes at events and conventions. I put some time into research, read the manual to the board, watched a LOT of videos and finally started gathering components in the TCSS shop. However as I was putting the finishing touches on my cart, the screen refreshed and behold NBv3 is out of stock in the TCSS shop as well as on Plecter labs website. This understandably put a damper on the plan, but not being one to be discouraged from a goal....I pushed on the Plan B since I am sort of on a time table with this build.

Plan B was fairly straight forward....the next option up on the shop was the Prizm board and instead of a removable pair of LEDs, we go with an RGB Tri Cree and utilize the prizm boards versatile color changing capabilities and additional sound fonts. Again I set off to scour the forums and web for videos, the boards manual and general forum searches and again began gathering the needed components into the TCSS cart. Its here that I realized that I may be installing the equivalent of a sports car motor into an 80's sedan. The Disciple, while a great looking hilt, is a Saberforge apprentice, meaning its not modular and it only has 2 holes pre drilled for 12mm AV switches. To take advantage of all the functions of the Prizm ill need 2 switches, but still want to incorporate a recharge port. That could be accomplished by installing it internally on the chassis but then I figured I would want a R.I.C.E port also. If I have access to features I want to use them just like anyone else would.

The best solution I can think of is possibly install a lower profile auxiliary switch in the back of the hilt, use the second 12mm hole for the recharge port and install the RICE port on the chassis internally. Space may also be a concern however... the hilt from end to end is 11 1/2", but the space within for components is 4" x 1 1/4" diameter in the grip portion w/ another 2 inches in the section with the switch holes (about 1 1/8" diameter so no room to push the chassis forward into that section). my cram fu might not be up to snuff for the plan with this hilt. It is here that I must default to the sabersmiths here kind enough to take the time to write a response, how would you go about this?

Saberforge Disciple - https://saberforge.com/collections/a...ducts/disciple
Red/Green/Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 CopperNova
Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module
Prizm Sound Module V4
2W 28mm Bass Speaker
2.1 MM recharge port
RICE Port

**Jin'thal** · 01-22-2017, 08:18 PM

So I am going to lose the RICE port....have the 2 AV switches on the hilt and a recharge port internally on the chassis assembly. RESISTOR VALUES. The values ive come up for each die is .73 on the Red die, .08 green die, .19 blue die. By this rational id be using a .80 2w resistor on my red die and because the other values are less than .50 I can make drive adjustments on the color profile channels on the prizm board.....at least... that's what I think based on what I've read so far. please feel free to berate me mercilessly if something here seems well out of place. the padawan journey continues....

**grAfLEX25** · 01-22-2017, 08:30 PM

I have been considering a very similar build (Disciple with PRIZM) and I also contemplated where the auxiliary switch would go. If you don't mind drilling the hilt it opens up a few more options, but if you don't want to drill anything I would recommend using both the 12mm switches for main activation and auxiliary and have your recharge port either internally or through the pommel. I'm surprised the grip section is that wide. I recently finished up a Saberforge Chosen with an NBv3 and 3D printed chassis and that had ~3.5" x 1 1/8" in the bottom section and then went to 1" ID for the ribbed section. Based on the internal dimensions you posted you should have enough space to fit the recharge port and speaker and you could even use the section near the switch holes although I don't think that will be necessary. I would recommend skipping the RICE port if you are concerned about space. Additionally, I don't think its necessary since with RICE you override all color configs which means you have the same 10 colors per font as I understand it. Alternatively you can put an individual color config per sound font bank which means you can have a total of 60 different colors (10 per font). Just my opinion though.

Alternatively if you are worried about too complex of a build you could try the new Pico Crumble http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pi...ion-P1226.aspx. The store should be getting the light side version soon. This board would allow you to use the one button + recharge port configuration you were originally planning on using while still retaining color changing.

**Jin'thal** · 01-22-2017, 09:02 PM

I double checked the dimensions of the disciple I have with a smaller tape measure and you are correct... I was off a little. It's closer to 3 3/4" in length but the diameter is in fact 1 1/4". The switch hole section dimensions I posted earlier appear to be accurate but it is difficult to measure since the disciple isn't a modular hilt. As for the pico crumble suggestion....I stared at that thing for a while tonight as I was putting my order together but ended up going with the prizm. I've found this to be a fairly fascinating hobby so far so I dove in head first, we will see how it goes. Ill either end up with a respectable saber with all the bells and whistles or a smoldering pile of slag now. Ill try to not be that guy as much as possible....I know how patience trying it is from my experience with forums I've been a part of for years....

**grAfLEX25** · 01-23-2017, 12:53 AM

I wish you luck on your build! Patience and planning, I would say, are essential in saber building. I would also recommend asking as many questions as you need. I know there were definitely times where I should have asked first before trying something and it would have saved me some time (and money).

**minorhero** · 01-25-2017, 04:42 PM

Take a look at, insert style 13. I think it will solve all of your problems. It has space for a recharge port and a Rice port.

**Jin'thal** · 01-26-2017, 07:03 PM

Ok so based off the PRIZM manual the following are my resistor values for each die and accent LEDs on the AV switches. This is the first time I have made these calculations via the PRIZM Manual formulas (it seemed a little more simplified than even FJKs tutorial so I rolled with it) and even though they appear quite simple, if someone could have a look and just give me a thumbs up or down on if it looks correct... then it'll be confirmed that I learned something this evening and I can crack this bottle of Jamesons Caskmates open with that in mind =)

supply is a Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh battery

Red/Green/Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 CopperNova

Green Cree Part# XPEBGR-L1-0000-00G01
130 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA
Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.58v (Supply 3.7 - FV 3.58 / Current 1A = .12 Ohms) (Supply 3.7 - FV 3.58 * 1A = .12w)

Red Cree Part# XPEBRD-L1-0000-00901
80.6 Minimum Luminous Flux @ 350mA
Forward Voltage @1000mA = 2.59v (Supply 3.7 - FV 2.59 / Current 1A = 1.11 Ohms) (Supply 3.7 - FV 2.59 * 1A = .1.11w)

Royal Blue Cree Part# XPEBRY-L1-0000-00S01
650mW Minimum Radiant Flux @ 350mA
Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.41v (Supply 3.7 - FV 3.41 / Current 1A = .29 Ohms) (Supply 3.7 - FV 2.59 * 1A = ..29w)

Voltages for accent LEDs regulated by PRIZM board is 3.3V @18mA
Accent LEDs/AV Switches x2 – 2.0V @ 20 mA (Supply 3.3 - FV 2.0 / Current .018mA = 72.2 Ohms) (Supply 3.3 - FV 2.0 * .018mA = ..0234w)

Obviously I wont be getting resistors to these exact values. My reading suggests that the green and blue dice might not need resistors at all and that some drive adjustments can be made on the PRIZM board settings since the Ohm rating is less than .50Ohms. A friend of mine suggested that I put one on each die anyway though just for safety for when the battery is fully charged.