Yet Another Newbie Looking For Help

[MagisterLudi]

Hello all!

I want to create my first self-wired stunt saber but at the moment I feel like I am completely missing important information. I tried looking at the TCSS videos on YouTube but all of them are really old and don't explain in detail the modular wiring system (which is what I want to use to start).

I ordered a bunch of parts from TCSS and they arrived today. Upon looking them over, I realized I completely missed something (or many things)! Here's what I ordered:

1 of: Rebel Star LED & MHSV1 Heatsink Module
1 of: MWS Short Momentary 16mm AV Switch - Nickel
1 of: 1ohm 5w resistor
1 of: 4AAA Battery Holder with JST connector
1 of: 2.7ohm 10w resistor

So here I am with many questions...

1.) How do I connect the MWS connectors together? Am I meant to use wire to link them together? Or are there other connectors that I needed to order?
2.) Is it true that momentary switches without a sound board will require me to hold down the button to keep the saber lit? I read that somewhere after the fact....
3.) What am I supposed to do with the resistors? I used the calculator http://www.led.linear1.org/1led.wiz and came out with that I needed a 2.7ohm/5w+ resistor. But how do I... use it? (BTW... are the values correct that I put into the calculator? "6 Source Voltage / 3.4 diode forward charge / 1000 mA"
4.) Is there a basic wiring guide for the MWS with a light-only stunt saber that I can reference?
5.) Am I completely lost without hope and should I give up?

Thank you for your help!

[TwinMill]

1) In the Modular Wiring System part of the store, there's a link "JST Connectors"
On that page they have connectors of both "genders" with attached wires. The color of wire doesn't matter specifically, so long as you can keep the + and - in their proper orientation.
(you know, since a crossed wire will lead to someone having a bad day)

2) While holding the switch would work, the finger or thumb used to hold the switch, if not your entire hand would eventually get fatigued... tired... maybe even cramp up a bit. Here's a couple more options: -A- buy a momentary to latching converter, or -B- if you do decide to pick up some JST connected wires, perhaps a latching switch might also be in order.
3) As long as the Rebel LED you chose is either blue, green, or cyan, then your listed voltage and mA is right, and by my calculations, a 2.7 Ohm resistor is the one you want.
and it would go on the positive wire, somewhere between the battery and the LED.
4) I'm not aware of a wiring guide, still learning something new every time I come here... someone else might.
5) hope is definitely not lost. There are great people here willing to lend a helping hand. (We were all new once)

I drew up a quick picture in paint that shows just one of many ways a saber (like yours) might be wired up using a latching switch.
one that uses a mws switch like you have, and a convertor circuit will take a bit longer.
quick example.png

[MagisterLudi]

Thank you so much for the reply and for the helpful diagram!

Do I have the use the JST connectors with the MWS or would I be able to insert any 24/22 AWG wire into the connectors? Such as this colorful array of wires: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00N51OJNK/

Yes. The LED is green. So the 2.7 ohm resistor works. Since I'm a complete electronics been, my question really was how do I add the resistors in the line? Just tape the wire to one end and tape another wire to the other end? (Now you truly know just how lost I am!)

I will look again at the latching switches and MWS parts on TCSS.

[darth_chasm]

Pretty sure everyone here will tell you no tape. It's a hack way to do wires and not very safe for the circuit. Tape gets old and loses it adhesive properties. Wires can get pulled out. All of this leads to high potential for shorts and circuit failure.

Learn to solder. It's a skill you can pick up pretty quickly with a few hours of practice on spare wire and junk electronics.

To add a resistor to a line: strip the ends of your wires, 1/16 - 1/8 inch should do. Snip the leads on the resistor to about the same length. Pre-tin the wire leads and resistor leads. Pre-tinning is the act of adding a small amount of solder before making the connections watch some of madcows videos for visual examples. After pretinning, cut off lengths of heat shrink and slide them on the wires. Then solder the resistor to the wires. Slide up heat shrink to cover the connections and heat it until it shrinks. A heat gun, lighter, or even the side of your soldering iron tip will do the trick.

[MagisterLudi]

Pretty sure everyone here will tell you no tape. It's a hack way to do wires and not very safe for the circuit. Tape gets old and loses it adhesive properties. Wires can get pulled out. All of this leads to high potential for shorts and circuit failure.

It was more of a joke to myself as that's what I would do if left to my own devices.

Learn to solder. It's a skill you can pick up pretty quickly with a few hours of practice on spare wire and junk electronics.

I definitely plan on it. At the moment however I don't have a dedicated area where I can set up shop. I hope in a couple months I'll be in a position where I'll have a spot in my house to practice my skills. This is why I wanted to go with the MWS first to get a feel for how things work.

To add a resistor to a line: strip the ends of your wires, 1/16 - 1/8 inch should do. Snip the leads on the resistor to about the same length. Pre-tin the wire leads and resistor leads. Pre-tinning is the act of adding a small amount of solder before making the connections watch some of madcows videos for visual examples. After pretinning, cut off lengths of heat shrink and slide them on the wires. Then solder the resistor to the wires. Slide up heat shrink to cover the connections and heat it until it shrinks. A heat gun, lighter, or even the side of your soldering iron tip will do the trick.

I understand now. That makes sense. Thank you for your help!!

I'm curious why the MWS requires one to use resisters if the point is that it should be modular and not involve soldering. Unless there is a way to use the MWS without using any resistors at all? I guess it would depend on how much power is reaching the LED from the battery?

[darth_chasm]

With so many choices for Board, battery and leds its probably not practical for them to wire the resistors in place. Plus, resistors are probably the easiest thing to solder when it comes to sabers.

[MagisterLudi]

With so many choices for Board, battery and leds its probably not practical for them to wire the resistors in place. Plus, resistors are probably the easiest thing to solder when it comes to sabers.

Yeah. You're right. There are so many variations it would be impossible to have every type of resistor prewired in stock.

My question really was that the modular wiring system appears to be meant for first-time builders but upon closer examination there's no way to wire the parts together without solder and shrink-wrapping. I was hoping for a plug and play sort of opportunity for my first build. I guess there's no way I'm getting that?

[PhoenixHawk]

Bro soldering is not that hard...and you don't need a shop spot in your house to practice....just go to Hobby Lobby...or Michael's...witch ever hobby supply store you have close by, and get one of those Gridded Cutting Mats, some .025" (..or .030") solder(i have Kester 63/37 .60mm-.025"-) a good adjustable soldering iron(Aoyue 469 variable soldering station from Amazon is a good one and inexpensive...think its 30 or 40 bucks) and set up shop on you kitchen table...and put it in a closet when your done, so the wifie dosen't freak out.(once the iron cools off ...of course.)

[TwinMill]

I'm curious why the MWS requires one to use resisters if the point is that it should be modular and not involve soldering. Unless there is a way to use the MWS without using any resistors at all? I guess it would depend on how much power is reaching the LED from the battery?

Eureka... (maybe) After a bit of additional thought, there is one possibility you might be interested in, at least for the short term if soldering isn't on your radar just yet:
A 1000mA buckpuck (constant current LED driver). http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bu...wire-P364.aspx
With that and a JST connector kit or two you would be set. Instead of soldering, it would just need a needle nose pliers to crimp the connector onto the wires.

[rlobrecht]

There is a MWS version of the buckpuck.