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Thread: Vader Black Series Conversion (In-Progress)

  1. #1

    Default Vader Black Series Conversion

    Hey all. So I decided to also convert my Black Series Vader
    For right now this is just the disassembly and primary wiring
    So first of all, remove the screws on the shroud


    And then this screw, and another on the opposite side (same as this one)

    Then remove this screw and disassemble the switch area

    Like I did with my Luke, I marked with a sharpie a wire to differentiate
    I took this a step further and instead of desoldering the leads, I clipped them, and extended the wires

    Now tuck it in
    You will then be able to remove the innards. Just lside them out
    Now to remove these two pins

    One of these pins is covered by the tape that adds detail to the saber
    I just peeled it back a bit and proceeded to tap out the pins with a punch

    Now the blade should come out.

    Disassemble the housing and you should be here

    Exactly like the Luke, bridge what you see and add a wire to each lead
    This one was a bit messier for me than the Luke. I tried to clean up the solder a bit, but I had no desoldering braid
    Hopefully it still works well


    Next update will be the LED
    Using a XPE-2 Deep Red Cree with a 2ohm 1 watt resistor
    A 1" heatsink module from TCSS with an 8.7 degree lens
    Last edited by brthegreat117; 01-07-2017 at 01:48 PM.

  2. #2

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    Finished!
    Little things to note
    No need for a resistor, had an issue that was solved when I clipped the resistor off

    The most annoying thing was that my 1" heatsink didn't fit anywhere, so I had to sand the blade holder to 1" so I could snuggly fit the LED module inside. No instead of being 7/8s, it's 1".
    I prefer 7/8s so I'll be making a 1" to 7/8s sleeve
    I should have just used the conversion kit, but this was pretty excruciatingly fun in a way
    The Deep Red is so cooooool. Feels so Rogue One-ish especially down my hallway






  3. #3

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    So would the conversion kit be easier with the black series. And if I use a tri cree deep red for all 3 and use the third as a standard instead of flash on clash would that work. I just got my vader black series and want to convert it. Just brainstorming at this point to figure out how to get the brightest deep red, but keeping the same sound system

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Daku7511 View Post
    So would the conversion kit be easier with the black series. And if I use a tri cree deep red for all 3 and use the third as a standard instead of flash on clash would that work. I just got my vader black series and want to convert it. Just brainstorming at this point to figure out how to get the brightest deep red, but keeping the same sound system
    The kit would make it a lot easier.
    Their is someone on FB who offers conversions and he uses tri-cree for his clients. Not sure about the F.O.C though. I don't think these boards support that.

  5. #5

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    Most battery solutions don't have the juice to support 3 LEDs concurrently.

  6. #6

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    Which is what confuses me when people use tri-crees. They are going to run fully lit.
    But is their a difference between a tri-cree running at %50 percent and a single cree running at %100?

  7. #7

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    this looks great man! great job. Question, do you re-use the original blade for your conversions or do you buy new ones?? I just did My 2005 MR Vader and kept the the blade, looks pretty good but just curious.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by BONES22 View Post
    this looks great man! great job. Question, do you re-use the original blade for your conversions or do you buy new ones?? I just did My 2005 MR Vader and kept the the blade, looks pretty good but just curious.
    Hey Bones, sorry for the late reply.

    For this, I reused the original blade holder. It was such a hassle, but luckily I'm getting the conversion kit tomorrow and dropping that in.
    Already have everything disassembled...again lol

  9. #9

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    So the orange wire is connected to all 3 on the top and the black is conected to all 3 on bottom, with an extra wire connecting them down the middle?

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by chuck805 View Post
    So the orange wire is connected to all 3 on the top and the black is conected to all 3 on bottom, with an extra wire connecting them down the middle?
    Hey Chuck, basically there's one positive lead and the rest are negative. you could either bridge all of the negative pads together or you could run individual wires from each pad and and solder them together on the led negative (personally i like the bridge). The positive pad is singular and should never touch any of the the others if you catch my meaning. Wire color means nothing but preference really. I have photoshoped brthegreat117's photo to explain. hope it helps...

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