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Thread: My first saber :-)

  1. #1

    Post My first saber :-)

    Hey guys,
    I just wanted to show you the first saber i make and it is for a friend of mine. I am not experienced in saberbuilding in any way so help would be very appreciated.
    Specs:

    - HILT:

    -Hilt style 1
    -Pommel style 3
    -Mhs choke style 3
    -Blade holder style 23 including Heat sink V4
    - box 9

    - MISC:
    -Super lube synthetic grease
    -8-32 thumb screw for blade retention
    -Drill & Tap for the blade retention screw
    - 1" Thin walled clear PolyC 34" long
    - Clear 1" thin walled blade tip
    - quad film
    - holes for box 9

    - ELECTRONICS:

    -Nano Biscotte V3
    -recharge port
    -Tri-Cree RRW
    -thermal pad
    -LED lense
    -18650 battery holder
    -16mm AV switch -illuminated in red
    -28mm Bass speaker
    -Resistor - 2x 1 Ohm, 2 W for 2 reds 1x 0.5 Ohm, 3w for white FoC
    -Dyna-Ohm

    - CHASSIS:

    - speaker mount v6
    - 9inch electronics shield

    Hope some of you can help me, thanks!
    Last edited by GregTheForce; 02-14-2017 at 06:07 AM. Reason: Added stuff

  2. #2

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    You have the Pommel style 3 listed. If you are talking about the pointy-ended pommel: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Po...le-3-P679.aspx then you don't need the MPS clip. The MPS clip is needed to hold pommel inserts in place, and that particular pommel doesn't take inserts.

    I'm also curious about the "6-32 Head cap screw for led module" you have listed. Where exactly is that screw intended to go? The current type of LED modules that we use no longer require screws to hold things in place.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

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    Thank you Silver Serpent! I was confused with the LED module I really appreciate it...

  4. #4

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    So this is everything i need right? Going to order after my birthday next week
    Join me, join the dark side!

  5. #5
    Jedi Padawan
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    Cire Yeldarb's Avatar
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    You list 16mm AV switch hole up by the hilt, but 12mm AV switch down below, just make sure you order the right size hole for your switch or Vice versa.

    Also, if your switch is illuminated you'll want a resistor for that (or the Dyna-Ohm)

  6. #6

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    Thank you very much and no, the swith is not illuminated..
    Join me, join the dark side!

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cire Yeldarb View Post
    You list 16mm AV switch hole up by the hilt, but 12mm AV switch down below, just make sure you order the right size hole for your switch or Vice versa.

    Also, if your switch is illuminated you'll want a resistor for that (or the Dyna-Ohm)
    GregTheForce even though you said the switch is a non, I still would definitely recommend that Dyna-Ohm that fat little thing helped me save time and I think it's worth it for any future builds! My first "build" (Install is more like it IMHO) was a cheap ********** hilt from the place that everyone usually grows to hate unless they buy the hilts empty and let me tell you, WORST three days of my new hobby life! My first build was a tri-cree RRW, illum av, recharge port, NB v3, Goth chassis and speaker mount, and cram fu nightmare! everything was so tightly packed it that I had to cut my speaker mount that I paid for to basically break it and take the pommel against the speak lip, pressing it into a metal wall and screwing the pommel on at the sametime...! My next build is MHS and from now on to make it much easier!

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by RogueSyProject View Post
    GregTheForce even though you said the switch is a non, I still would definitely recommend that Dyna-Ohm that fat little thing helped me save time and I think it's worth it for any future builds! My first "build" (Install is more like it IMHO) was a cheap ********** hilt from the place that everyone usually grows to hate unless they buy the hilts empty and let me tell you, WORST three days of my new hobby life! My first build was a tri-cree RRW, illum av, recharge port, NB v3, Goth chassis and speaker mount, and cram fu nightmare! everything was so tightly packed it that I had to cut my speaker mount that I paid for to basically break it and take the pommel against the speak lip, pressing it into a metal wall and screwing the pommel on at the sametime...! My next build is MHS and from now on to make it much easier!
    Ok... i think i understand what you are trying to say but why should I buy the dyna-ohm in my first build and not the 10 mins later when i order the parts for my saber? Thanks for helping though.
    Join me, join the dark side!

  9. #9

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    If you aren't using any accent LEDs (illuminated switches or other such), then you don't need the DynaOhm. I'd wait to order one until you have a build that requires it.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by GregTheForce View Post
    Ok... i think i understand what you are trying to say but why should I buy the dyna-ohm in my first build and not the 10 mins later when i order the parts for my saber? Thanks for helping though.
    Ohh no no I meant for future build that requires one sorry for the confusion lol.

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