problems with my build

[Keivan]

Hi TCSS folks
I just finished my second saber and after i soldered everything i took a deep breath and turn it on, I knew i would have problems
so the saber turned on which is good sign, but my momentary switch do not light up which is odd and also one of my momentary switch is stuck and i can not push it down
yes its physically stuck and i can not push it down no matter how hard i push it
any ideas what could have gone wrong?

best
K

[Zzan]

Do you have a wiring diagram that you followed, so we can look to see if any obvious mistakes were made?
Do you have pics of your wiring/soldering so we can see if there might be a short or mistake?
What kind of momentary switch is it that is stuck?

[Keivan]

Hey Zzan thanks for your responds here is the diagram, so as far as the momentry switch i think i jump the gun on that. the switch works fine its just it dosnt have lots of give to be pushed down so another word when pressed it goes in very little to none but it dose work.
so at this point my saber works fine the only issue is that both of my LED momentry switches do not light up
im using the 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Blue Dot Switch and 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Red Ring Switch

for the blue switch which has forward voltage of 3.3V and runs at 20mA so according to my calculation the resistor is 220 ohms 1/4W
for the 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Red Ring Switch which has The LED has a forward voltage of 2.1V and runs at 20mA it used a 270 ohms 1/4w
i am using a 7.4v Li-ion 1400mAh 18500 Battery Pack
dose that sound right?

CFv7_top_01.jpgCFv7_bottom_01.jpg

Do you have a wiring diagram that you followed, so we can look to see if any obvious mistakes were made?
Do you have pics of your wiring/soldering so we can see if there might be a short or mistake?
What kind of momentary switch is it that is stuck?

[Zzan]

Did you bridge the SMT pads for the accent LEDs? If you use inline resistors the SMT pads need to be bridged to complete the connection.
This is the only thing I see wrong with your diagram. If you did bridge them is your resistor correct or is it bleeding too much voltage?

From the manual page 16: If the user prefers to use classic resistor with leads, the SMT footprint must be
bridged: tin both pads first then add a bit of solder while the soldering iron tip is right
in the middle of the pads.Capture.JPG

[Keivan]

OMG i have to bridge the pad??? i missed that completely. thank you i will try that

K

Did you bridge the SMT pads for the accent LEDs? If you use inline resistors the SMT pads need to be bridged to complete the connection.
This is the only thing I see wrong with your diagram. If you did bridge them is your resistor correct or is it bleeding too much voltage?

From the manual page 16: If the user prefers to use classic resistor with leads, the SMT footprint must be
bridged: tin both pads first then add a bit of solder while the soldering iron tip is right
in the middle of the pads.Capture.JPG

[Keivan]

Zzan I can not thank you enough. the bridge was the issue and now its working. i don't know how i missed that, thank you so much for taking the time and helping me.
i have to say bridging that pad!!! you have to have an eye of the tiger i mean it was so microscopic i don't know how people bridge things so small and so close to each other
i really had a hard time doing it but i did it

thank you again
best
k

Did you bridge the SMT pads for the accent LEDs? If you use inline resistors the SMT pads need to be bridged to complete the connection.
This is the only thing I see wrong with your diagram. If you did bridge them is your resistor correct or is it bleeding too much voltage?

From the manual page 16: If the user prefers to use classic resistor with leads, the SMT footprint must be
bridged: tin both pads first then add a bit of solder while the soldering iron tip is right
in the middle of the pads.Capture.JPG

[Zzan]

No problem. Glad it was something relatively easy to fix