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Thread: RGB Wiring Diagram Confirmation

  1. #1

    Default RGB Wiring Diagram Confirmation

    Hi everyone!

    So my goal is to make an RGBW saber that is controlled using potentiometers. I've found this thread extremely helpful, but I wanted to get some input on my version of the design.

    I'm using the Obsidian V4 soundboard from my current Ultrasaber and planned on using a buckpuck for the driver:

    15252590_10154697148289188_5511879197142104883_o.jpg

    As suggested by the aforementioned thread, the three pots used for controlling the color mixing are wired to the mosfet gates, which then control three main LED sets: the blade LED star, the hilt "crystal" LED, and then three individual R, G, and B accent LED's next to the pots to show the RGB ratios. The W in the RGBW is wired to the Obsidian board's FOC functionality.

    The other suggestion I've heard is to use three 6-wire buckpucks with the pre-installed potentiometers:

    15259399_10154697148284188_4395978045171326651_o.jpg

    The second method is obviously less cost efficient than the first, so the first would be preferable.

    Any help or general advice would be great. Thanks very much!

    And PS: Here's the hilt design so far. Hope you all like it:

    e9929ed395f2df9758a09ac9e21b9a58.jpg
    Last edited by BlackDove; 11-26-2016 at 05:00 PM. Reason: Added PCB to recharge port

  2. #2
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    Default

    First off, I like your design!

    Secondly, I am not too familiar with that particular sound board (you'll find most here aren't), but I wouldn't think a buckpuck would be required, especially if you are going to be using POT's to fine-tune the colors. You may want to calculate the minimum resistor needed for each color and wire that in line with each LED first, then use the POT's to fine tune those colors further if that's what you're going for

  3. #3

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    Thanks!

    So far as I know, the Obsidian V4 does not have an LED driver, so at least a buckpuck would be necessary (you could use a resistor, but it's not as efficient). It's basically only a sound board. Thinking of it more too, a momentary switch would definitely be required, as the board uses one to select the different sound fonts on the card.

    As for just using pots + resistors, apparently that method would require some pretty large pots and isn't very effective, according to the thread I linked:

    Quote Originally Posted by Obi1 View Post
    My first idea was to use potentiometers instead of serial resistances to adjust the resistance and thus the intensity of the individual colors. Simple and easy to do...BUT does not work quite as well in reality. On one hand common potentiometers are not designed to carry any power, else they get nasty big, on the other hand you need a high resistance in order to be able to fully switch off a LED, because these besties give out a decent light even with some tens of mAs. In this way I came to the idea to use a potentiometer to control the gate of a MOS Transistor.

  4. #4

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    You'll want the 6-wire buckpucks. The extra two wires work with potentiometers to give a dimming function.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    You'll want the 6-wire buckpucks. The extra two wires work with potentiometers to give a dimming function.
    So I would need three 6-wire buckpucks, one for each R, G, and B diode on the star (and the other RGB elements in my design)?

    The schematic I'm drawing off of (linked in the OP) had one built in driver to the board and used the pots + mosfets to control the dimming, which seems like it would be more cost-efficient in the end. I'm assuming both methods work just fine, so is there any advantage to doing one method over the other?

    Three 6-wire buckpucks comes out to app. $45, so if it's possible to just purchase one normal one at app. $15 + $10 or so for the pots and mosfets, you can see why I'd be leaning that way!

    Thanks for all the help everyone, it is greatly appreciated!

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