MR FX Sabers vs. LED Sabers from TCSS

[darthdan]

I would just go ahead and have tim do the thumbscrew hole if you're not too expreienced with such things. otherwise you would have to drill a perfectly straight hole into a round surface and then tap the hole to make threads for the thumbscrew(for securing the blade). It's not like rocket science hard, but a lot more trouble than just paying the $10.

Building with the MHS builder you will get exactly what you check boxes for. Hold the cursor over the options(like basic electronics package) to see what all is included.

[Lord Maul]

just select your parts in the mhs and check all of the boxes below. that will get you everything you need except a solder iron w/ solder and batteries

[jjshumpert]

remember when you get your parts in that soldering is easy with a little practice. any good hobby store will have packs of assorted wood burning tips that are treaded to fit most good brand irons, and gives you cool tips like my most used that looks like a needle point with a bend in it that is absolutely awesome for doing small work like with the luke mr boards and lux emitters. for your other connections make shure to run some heatshrink on your wires before making your connections so you can seal them well after soldering. ive found using tape to secure the wires to your work surface before making your connections helps alot, or you can get one of those nifty little things that do clo uses with the adjustable arms that end in alligator clamps and a magnifying glass mounted on the top.

use some extra wire to practice with for a few hours before you jump into your actuall saber connections to give yourself a chance to get the feel of how your tips work with the solder. the cleaner your solders the easier it will be later to make it all fit back together and give you that professional look.

if your first saber comes out well and you decide this is a hobby that you would like to really get into, i would sugjest getting a butane powered cordless soldering iron and heat gun. the butane irons are a little pricey but you can get around 10 hours of use per tank with the better units and they can heat up to operating temperature as quickly as 5 seconds. the one i have is roughly the size of a large ball point pen and ive filled it maybe twice over the last 15 sabers ive wired.

[Slent Thndr]

Thanks for the tips.

I'd love to build it with the soundboard but its pretty expensive.

If I get the following, will it all fit together right?

Complete LED blade
SKU: LEDBlade40
Select Size: 40 inches $29.99

LED basic electronics kit - 5wGreen
SKU: LEDKit-5wGreen $34.87

Screw on LED blade holder style 4
SKU: Sledholder4 $23.95

Screw on pommel style 3
SKU: Spommel3 $7.99

Double threaded hilt style 2
SKU: Shilt2

The "Double threaded hilt style 2" has a hole for a button. So then do I need to ask him to drill any other holes? Isn't that the only hold I would need? What is the thumbscrew thing u mention for?

[Ryma Mara]

the thumbscrew hold in the blade, unless you want to drill it go to the services option and get the drill and tap hole.

[Slent Thndr]

Ooooooooohhhhh.....

Thanks.

[jjshumpert]

remember to lay out all your wires with your assembled hilt before soldering your connections and give yourself plenty of room in your wires to work with when its all wired up and ready to install in the hilt.

if you want to go with sound later its not that big of a problem to wire with the 5w electronics kit from tim. i would sugjest using the luke board, its the easiest to adapt to work with your lux wiring and the led jumper on the luke module comes off so its not in your way when you put it in the hilt. you could even hook up a secondary 3w or k2 lux off your luke module if you wanted to do the lighted and exposed focusing crystal look in a hilt. if you want to add the luke module later here is my wiring diagram for the 5w kit.



cut the switch wires and set it aside, solder the wires back together on the module to close the connection, solder the red and orange leads together for your + brown is your - yellow and blue are your speaker. on your battery pack solder a wire to the negative on one 3 cell stack so your bat pack will put out the 4.5 that the mr module wants and add a wire to your + between the switch and resistor so the sound module comes on with the led and you only need the one switch...