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Thread: 2005 MR Vader to Tri-Cree/NBv3 -- switch question

  1. #1

    Default 2005 MR Vader to Tri-Cree/NBv3 -- switch question

    Hello all!

    I just finished my first saber rebuild, which was a Mace Windu MR saber that I went full custom on with a Nano Biscotte v3, tri-Cree LED, FOC, the works. The one thing that I ran into while doing this build was the switch replacement. This was not that big of a deal since TCSS offers a gold-plated momentary switch, so I just drilled out a hole where the old switch was.

    Now I'm wanting to do the same kind of project with my Vader saber, except I'm more nervous about the placement of the switch. I can't keep the bubble card activation switch as an option since it is a latching switch (right?). So, my first thought is to put the switch here:

    tumblr_md7kn8ektx1rkgyw3o1_1280.jpg

    However, doing so will definitely interfere with the TCSS blade holder. If I drill out a hole for something like this:

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...ItemId=5778489

    ...will that compromise the integrity of the blade holder? Has anybody else done anything similar that can lend some advice?
    Thanks for reading!
    The Force guides both you and me in everything. We are here by the will of the Force.

  2. #2

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    Okay, so I sort of answered my own question. After taking the saber apart and eyeballing everything, it looks like I would be cutting it pretty darn close to the led heatsink. Probably too close.

    https://imgur.com/gallery/iKbfU

    So I'm thinking that that option is out. My next idea is to still use a basic/tactile switch, but instead place it underneath the bubble card and modify it so that you just push the bubble card down. From here it will just be a matter of ordering a couple switches and trying out a few to see if they will generally fit in the housing. If this doesn't work, I think I'll have to decide where I want to drill into the hilt.



    EDIT: After a couple quick measurements, I found that this might be my best bet:

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...itch-P261.aspx

    I'll have to dremel out a bit of the bubble switch housing to make room for the switch, but that shouldn't be too hard. Maybe see if I can slide a spring under the bubble card too. We'll see!
    Last edited by old_luke; 09-21-2016 at 05:53 PM.
    The Force guides both you and me in everything. We are here by the will of the Force.

  3. #3

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    I was searching through the forum and stumbled up on your thread. So how did the switch placement work out for you? I'm about to start a 2005 MR Vader ESB and was wondering about this very issue. I'd prefer to mount a switch under the bubble strip. Did you finish it yet? If so, I'd love to see it.

  4. #4

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    Its a bit late to comment for the OP, but its my understanding that latching switches are possible depending on what sound card you use. For instance, a Crystal Focus 8 will handle either momentary or latching.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by minorhero View Post
    Its a bit late to comment for the OP, but its my understanding that latching switches are possible depending on what sound card you use. For instance, a Crystal Focus 8 will handle either momentary or latching.
    Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I was thinking this may be to old of a post, but it was worth a try. I want to put a NBV3 (or similarly priced) board in mine, but I don't think it will support latching switches. I may start a new thread because all of the info I've gathered on here is rather dated and doesn't really answer some of my questions. I want to go beyond a simple blade holder/single LED conv.

  6. #6

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    I have the same issue here. Im doing a MR 2005 conversion with NBv4. Im still wondering how and where to put the switch. A photo would certainly be very helpful
    I find your lack of candy treats disturbing —Halloween Vader

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by jcgardea View Post
    I have the same issue here. Im doing a MR 2005 conversion with NBv4. Im still wondering how and where to put the switch. A photo would certainly be very helpful
    Juan Carlos,

    Check out this: 2007-Master-Replicas-Luke-ANH-Conversion

    You can do the clamp card activation. Just remove the latching switch. I removed that whole switch assembly unit (the one that slid up in the clamp to activate), drilled a small hole to pop in the momentary switch so that the activation hat on the switch was level within that old plastic section. Secured the switch in with E6000. I then re-assembled the clamp, and by using layers of cut up beer cans (the same width and length of bubble strip) until I got good tactile action out of the newly installed switch. The cut up beer or soda can will go underneath the bubble strip.

    PM me your address on SLD, and I'll send you several of the switches I use. You'll be golden.

    Tom
    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 08-04-2018 at 05:43 AM.

    "Let the past die."

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