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Thread: wiring for staff...

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by GeluKhanGharr
    You have the sound board already? I thought you're getting it next week... .
    true. But I won't have the other parts I need for it until after then anyways...

    Maybe wire one LED to the sound module and one directly to the batteries with a resistor and switch them both on with a DPDT switch. But the LED wired to the Anakin board might experience a slight delay, I am not sure.

    That is kind of what I was thinking, just wasn't sure how it would work. Especially if I want to use the buckpuck...don't really want to have to use two pucks. Seems kinda wrong somehow.
    "vibrations within vibrations, traveling at the speed of color"

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  2. #22
    supertrogdor's Avatar
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    I concur with Gelu, (good to see you back on the forums again by the way) send one led through a resistor and another through the soundboard. It seems the easiest, and you could save the buckpuck for another saber and resistor your second LED. I would also suggest that if you do not have a definitive answer that you are certain will work, keep it as simple as you can at first, and add parts making it only a little more complecated one piece at at time. My general rule of thumb is KISS it
    Keep It Simple S.....(fill in your own blank here)

  3. #23
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    I had a lot of trouble with the power going through MR switch leads. If you stick with a Puck be sure to use a DPDT to isolate them. You could use the 9V 6AA pack and tap 4.5V to the soundboard.
    RED LEADER Standing by!

  4. #24

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    Yes, isolating two circuits (one with the buckpuck and the two LED serialized running at 9Volts and the other running the soundboard and tapping into the battery pack at 4.5Volts) would probably be your best bet. And you would not use the LED output from the sound board. The only thing in common would be the DPDT switch to turn them on simultaneously, but from a circuit point of view the two would never meet. The only problem I see with this setup is the tapping into the battery pack - 3 batteries would drain faster than the other 3 and that usually leads to battery leaks.
    Born of Sith, seduced by the light.

  5. #25
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    Yeah, tapping for the correct voltage is really hackish... but sometimes it's the easiest.
    RED LEADER Standing by!

  6. #26

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    If I have room(it is a staff), could I run the soundboard off it's own battery pack? Put the two LED's in series using the puck and 6AA on one side of the DPDT and the soundboard with 3AA on the other?
    "vibrations within vibrations, traveling at the speed of color"

    "I've got a bad feeling about this..."

  7. #27
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    Another thing you can do to avoid this altogether is to wire up each LED as if it was its own saber.

    Granted, you will have two switches, but you will also be able to turn on whichever blade you wish, and also take off one blade and use it as a single saber should your wish to do so.

    A final advantage is better distributed weight if you're putting one battery(ies) on one side and the other battery(ies) on the other.

    This is what I did for Necrolosis' "Charontas" saber, and although it's nothing fancy or super pretty... it's pretty lightweight, and rechargeable too!

    You can see it in the photo gallery if you wish.
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
    ~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
    ~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide

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