Ditch the 14500s. The only reason they work now is because the buck puck is *limiting* current. Your Tri-Crees aren't running half as brightly as they're capable of (the 1000mA puck is split between the three diodes, so each is only a little over 300mA).

Also, if you don't mind keeping your staff in one piece, you really only need one soundboard, and with some careful wiring, a single Spark 2 can run both Tri-Crees (with staggered ignition of the blades and dual-button sounds).

You ought to use six resistors (one per diode). 1ohm will put each LED at about 1000mA, but I'll actually recommend some 1.5ohm resistors to keep things about 700mA each. This puts each module at a bit over 2A, which is pretty much the safe limit for the TruDrive on the Spark 2 (and still twice as much power as your LEDs are currently getting).

Alternatively, you could have all three diodes share a 0.5ohm resistor to the same effect (so you'd only need to buy two resistors), but if a connection breaks, you risk over-driving and burning out an LED). It just comes down to how much you trust your solder.

For switches, if your hilt came with latching Guarded switches, TCSS stocks momentary Guarded switches, or a 12mm AV will fit in the recessed area once you widen the hole to a 1/2". If your hilts already have latching 16mm AV switches, then you can swap those out for momentary.

You can either put a switch in either hilt for Spark's two-button configuration, or configure Spark for one-button operation, freeing up the second switch hole for a recharge port.

I'm looking into modifying the all-in-one NB chassis to fit a Spark 2, but if you're wanting to use acrylic chassis discs, I think the Petit Crouton discs are the closest size.