Blowing momentary switches

[Schwizzle]

Thanks for asking that. I *think* so. I don't want to embarrass myself further, but anyway, I was putting the + IN on the +LED terminal and then the positive lead from the battery went to the - OUT of the Dynaohm.

That is how a battery works in serial right? Positive to negative, etc. Still learning though so willing to admit I have it backwards.

The LED's were lighting up however when I would apply the negative lead from the batt to the -LED terminal.

Edit: based on the pdf here, http://www.ledsupply.com/led-drivers...r-power-module, I think that the LED positive was supposed to go to the negative side of the dynaohm (first time interpreting the electrical symbols in the wiring diagram, for the LED symbol, doesn't say if left or right is positive, went with left being positive)

[Cire Yeldarb]

Simplified version:
Battery/NB Accent Pad -Positive Wire-> "In" DynaOhm "Out" -> LED -Negative Wire-> Ground Pad

[Madcow]

It's also possible that if your soldering iron is too hot, or if you heat the contact for too long... the LED becomes un-soldered inside the switch. That happened once to me.

[Schwizzle]

Thanks again for the helpful info. I wasn't able to work on a wiring diagram this past weekend. The wife is taking a couple days off at the end of this week, so I am going to try and get it done then. I've seen people make diagrams on here using a program of some sort, then save it as an image...I will try to find one for free or just do it by hand.

Here's another idea in the meantime: I'm going to use tri-star Cree's (one is all REDORANGE, the other all BLUE) as my main LED. However, I didn't notice that the NB only offers 2A current. I know I can wire the 3rd LED to the FoC pad on the NB and the 3rd would light up for FOC.

However, my hilt has space for a 2nd switch, so I should be able to wire the 3rd LED (plus resistor) and 2nd switch directly to the battery and turn the 3rd LED on/off that way, while the other two LED's will be activated by the recharge port/switch kill key/NB......right?

I've read on there that I could do a separate PEX for the 3rd LED, but since I was going to put in a 2nd switch anyway......not sure if anyone else has gone that route for powering the 3rd LED or not.

[Schwizzle]

Ok, attached is my wiring diagram. Would someone please check it when they have time? This is the first one I've done, so please let me know if there is anything I could do better on.

saber wiring diagram draft.jpg

[Sevinzol]

Well I'm confused.

What I have in mind is to have two illuminated switches, one that will come on/off via recharge port and kill key, and the other wired directly from the power source (18650, 3.7) that will turn on and off whenever I press the button

You can wire a switch so that the switch's LED will light up when the kill key is removed but the main LED will not turn on until you press the switch. You don't need 2 switches

You seem to have 3 switches. 2 are daisy chained together and connect directly to the main LED, bypassing the sound card, and the third appears to be looped through the main LED pads and back to the sound card for no reason. Your power from the battery (red wire) loops back to the main LED (white wires) from the same terminal on the sound card - effectively bypassing the sound card.

You are going to let the magic smoke out for sure.

Have to read the manual that came with the sound card? There are several wiring diagrams included.
IF not, go here: customsabershop/Nano-Biscotte-Sound-module v3 click the link marked 'Owner's manual', save it and read through it. Twice.

Then go here: Youtube - TheCustomSaberShop and watch the video on wiring up an illuminated switch, and a recharge port, and everything else . Twice.

[Schwizzle]

Well I'm confused.

You can wire a switch so that the switch's LED will light up when the kill key is removed but the main LED will not turn on until you press the switch. You don't need 2 switches

You seem to have 3 switches. 2 are daisy chained together and connect directly to the main LED, bypassing the sound card, and the third appears to be looped through the main LED pads and back to the sound card for no reason. Your power from the battery (red wire) loops back to the main LED (white wires) from the same terminal on the sound card - effectively bypassing the sound card.

You are going to let the magic smoke out for sure.

Have to read the manual that came with the sound card? There are several wiring diagrams included.
IF not, go here: customsabershop/Nano-Biscotte-Sound-module v3 click the link marked 'Owner's manual', save it and read through it. Twice.

Then go here: Youtube - TheCustomSaberShop and watch the video on wiring up an illuminated switch, and a recharge port, and everything else . Twice.

Thanks for the condescending post, very helpful. Since I am using a screenshot of the NB board from the manual, that might mean I have looked at the manual. I will attempt to proceed on without the condescension.

The two pictures in the middle are switches. The left will be called switch 1, the right switch two. The other picture on the right of switch 2 is the recharge port. Also, I am using the NB header with JST connections. I tried to use the color of wires that is on the header. TCSS has the wiring colors here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/NB...ess-P1144.aspx

The NB board doesn't have the amps to power all three of the main LED's (2A vs 3A), so I am wiring the one LED to the 2nd switch so to get power directly from the battery (via the recharge port, same circuit that the NB board is on) and turn on/off on the 2nd switch. Since the LED will be getting power not from the board, but from the battery, I want it to be on the 2nd switch instead. This will also help conserve battery by being able to turn off a LED at will.

The wiring harness uses white for + LED and blue for - LED. The white wire on the harness goes back to the positive pad on the NB board. This is the reason why I have the white wires going from the the positive's of the two LED's to the positive pad on the NB board. The blue wires of the two LED's are ground and go to the - LED pad on the board.

Switch one isn't bypassing the board. One of the switch terminals is connected to the activation pad on the board, and then goes to the ground pad on the board (again, this is how it is wired on the harness for the board). And then the LED terminals for switch one are going to the 3.3V pad + resistor on the board for +, and then the ground pad for - (as the manual shows).

I don't want switch 2 to be governed by the board, but by the recharge port/battery; this is why it is going to the recharge port and is bypassing the board. But, since the LED ground for switch 2 is connected to the same ground terminal as what the board is, switch 2 LED should turn on/off according to the kill key being removed/inserted, same as switch 1.

Thank you for your patience as I continue to learn. I have read through the manual many times. Also, I fully realize that my diagram might be confusing, it is the first one I have ever done. I am realizing that other diagrams don't let the wires cross (because that is bad in real life of course), so I apologize for that and see that is confusing. I will attempt to clean it up tonight and not have the wires cross, and hopefully make it more sensible.

Oh, and the electrical symbol I used means there is a resistor present in the line, I wasn't sure if that was confusing or not either.

[Cire Yeldarb]

Given the explanation of what you are trying to do, I think your diagram is correct... theres just a lot of wires to keep track of, so I would have at least one more person verify as well...


Edit: And honestly, I thought your recharge port was another switch too until I read through your plan, where you specified what it really was lol

[Schwizzle]

Given the explanation of what you are trying to do, I think your diagram is correct... theres just a lot of wires to keep track of, so I would have at least one more person verify as well...


Edit: And honestly, I thought your recharge port was another switch too until I read through your plan, where you specified what it really was lol

Thanks Cire. Yes, I can see now how that could be taken as another momentary switch, so I do apologize (to Sevinzol as well) for not identifying it as such. Apparently that kind of recharge port isn't used much, or just isn't talked about much, because it took me a while to find a thread identifying the ground terminals on it as well. I did find one eventually, but had used a multi meter at that point to identify which terminal went with which circuit (board circuit vs recharge port).

I've got a friend that does this stuff for a living so I will run it by him as well.

One thing I am still unsure of is the 2nd momentary switch turning on the single LED. As the wiring is now, I think the LED would only stay on when I have the button pressed down. It may not be possible to turn on just the single LED with a momentary switch....will have to think/research more on that one.

[FenixFire]

You are correct on the switch, you would either need a latching switch or the latching converter from the store.