Blowing momentary switches

[Schwizzle]

So, I keep on blowing the LED's in my momentary switches. I got it to work one time, but I tried different wiring according to a diagram I pulled from Amazon, and then went back to the original way I was doing it (based on another diagram from Amazon), and now it isn't working either. The diagrams are below

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However, these diagrams don't really show what the terminals are themselves. The bottom one is grounds but ground for the switch, or the LED?

What I have in mind is to have two illuminated switches, one that will come on/off via recharge port and kill key, and the other wired directly from the power source (18650, 3.7) that will turn on and off whenever I press the button. I am using a NB v3, and DynaOhm resistors. I've only done alligator clips/no soldering to test the connections.

Both diagrams looked like they would apply to what I want to do, but I'm not sure now.

[Silver Serpent]

If you have switches from the TCSS store, the LED terminals are labeled in this diagram:



The unlabeled terminals are for the switch mechanism itself.

If the LED in the switch is blowing, then your resistor isn't being wired correctly. The DynaOhm needs to go on the positive side of the LED.

[Schwizzle]

If you have switches from the TCSS store, the LED terminals are labeled in this diagram:



The unlabeled terminals are for the switch mechanism itself.

If the LED in the switch is blowing, then your resistor isn't being wired correctly. The DynaOhm needs to go on the positive side of the LED.

Thank you! I will try things out again tonight.

[Schwizzle]

Actually, looking again at the switches I have (from the saber shop) positive and negative are switched.

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[FenixFire]

Actually, looking again at the switches I have (from the saber shop) positive and negative are switched.

image.jpg

Turn the switch 180 degrees and they will match the diagram if the switch is labeled the + and - always indicate the led. there is no polarity to the switch, it is just a line interrupter.

Are you putting the DynaOhm on the positive line? post your wiring diagram.

For an on with power you should have:
1. a positive feed from the NB + --> the DynaOhm -->Switch LED +
2. a ground feed from the NB - --> Switch LED-
3. a line from NB ACT --> switch terminal
4. a line from Bat- --> Switch terminal

[Schwizzle]

Turn the switch 180 degrees and they will match the diagram if the switch is labeled the + and - always indicate the led. there is no polarity to the switch, it is just a line interrupter.

Ok, so the position of the LED color indicator (the dot) doesn't always match the polarity of the LED terminals? I have a larger switch that has the dot in the same place as shown in Serpent's diagram.

[Schwizzle]

Turn the switch 180 degrees and they will match the diagram if the switch is labeled the + and - always indicate the led. there is no polarity to the switch, it is just a line interrupter.

Are you putting the DynaOhm on the positive line? post your wiring diagram.

For an on with power you should have:
1. a positive feed from the NB + --> the DynaOhm -->Switch LED +
2. a ground feed from the NB - --> Switch LED-
3. a line from NB ACT --> switch terminal
4. a line from Bat- --> Switch terminal

Yes, well, for what I thought was the positive terminal I've been putting the dynaohm on each time, but I think I've been paying too much attention to the position of that color indicator.

So, to just test the LED, all I should have to do is put the resistor on the + LED terminal, then attach my positive lead from the battery, then connect - lead from battery to the - LED terminal, and the LED should light up correct?

I will do some wiring diagrams later after kids are in bed, and if I'm not dead asleep by that point

Thank you all for the replies btw.

[Whi-ja]

Here's one way to save a little cram-fu trouble by reducing your wires from 4 to 3...

diag 1.jpg

[Schwizzle]

So, along with getting the terminals straight, I've also come to realize that my dynaohm was bad too. I had a second one and tried it and the LED's were lighting right up. However, the 2nd dynaohm went bad too. I'm not completely sure why, except I may have inadvertently moved the positive alligator clip (they're tricky on those small terminals) and it touched one of the switch terminals for a brief moment. I thought that it shouldn't matter though since the switch terminals don't have polarity?

[Cire Yeldarb]

The Dyna-ohm has an "in" side and an "out" side, are you making sure to put it facing the right way in your circuit?