I am having a terrible time getting a SPST tactile momentary switch to mount inside of a 6" extension [part no. DF6] (yes, I used the TCSS tactile switch milling service when I ordered the ext.). I also got the tactile switch ring for stability. first thing I had to do was enlarge the four holes on the switch ring to allow for 28 guage wire and heatshrink. The switch hole is about a 1/4in. below the threads.
Now whenever I am trying to slip the wired switch and ring into position and sit flush against the inner wall, the switch gets bound up and I have crushed two switches as of now. I have viewed the video that FJK did on these switches but the switch ring he uses in the video is for a dual mount and I am using the single mount. There is no keystone in the single mount to seperate the ring as FJK suggests with the dual mount. I have tried two methods to slip the ring into place.
First method was to try and shimmy the ring into place at slight angle. when I do this the ring gets bound up on the threads. Using a pair of thin needlenose I am able to get the ring just past the threads. by this time there is so much pressure on the switch; it get crushed.
Second method was to slip the ring 90 degrees out of phase with the inner walls and using a pair of pencils (the eraser ends) manipulate the ring into position. Same result: switch gets crushed and falls apart.
I have thought about just cutting the ring so it will separate and bind up when I am trying to get it into position. Am I on the right track of thinking with my cutting the switch ring idea or am I missing a trick? One of my concerns is that I do cut the switch ring that I will not be able to reattach the ring once I have it inside the hilt using glue, epoxy or just scotch tape as a binding agent. Second concern is after I cut the ring that it compromise the integrity of the mounting ring and the ring itself will not function as designed. Internal space is not an issue because this is a stunt build so I have a battery pack (part no. 2AAJST) with one 3.7v Li-ion and dummy cell. Being a stunt build, I am thinking ahead that the owner may want to upgrade and add a sound board later. So I am wiring using the removable module method of assembly (i.e. JST connectors between the switch, the battery holder, the batteries and wired LED plus resistor with a JST at the end.
Not asking anyone to give up any trade secrets but a little assistance would be greatly appreciated.
I have a photo of the hilt that I will attach with this post.
IMG_20160805_192602033.jpg
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