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Thread: just want to confirm my wiring so I dont fry my board 4 days before comic con.

  1. #11

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    Morpheus1977, that Radio Shack LED need something like 2V, right? If so, you're giving it much too high a voltage. Even using the correct resistor, you will lose a lot of electricity to heat loss through the oversized resistor.

    Please, read the manual thoroughly, and feel free to ask any follow-up questions you may have. We will be here to help.
    So certain are you; always with you it cannot be done.
    Hear you nothing that I say?


    http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc...deTutorial.pdf
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  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by FenixFire View Post
    Do you know the fV and the mA you were trying to run. If they are similar to SuperBright they are 3.5v @20mA. How many do you have wired for the bank, and are they wired parallel or serial?

    For 1 the math would be:
    R=7.4-3.5/.020
    R=195 ohm

    P=195*.020^2
    P=.078W

    So at least a 195 ohm 1/8 w resistor.

    Or use
    http://ledcalc.com/; Not my fav but they will give you the option to add series wired LEDs.
    They are wired parallel I believe. I had all of the pos leads soldered together then going to the battery pos after the switch. The neg leads soldered together, then that line going to the battery line... It was supposed to be a simple circuit. I had the exact same setup with my GOW lancer and that worked perfectly.... (very weird). all I am tying to do is to get a small clear ammo canister to light up.. I think I may have been way over thinking it.. What I may do is go to wallmart, in the automotive section they have strips of LEDS you can buy for your car that usually come with a try me button. I may just get one of those, and attach a latching switch to the leds and put those inside the canister.
    My original idea was to have it light up when I attach it to the blaster.. But I think my new idea will be better. (I just have to figure out how to open the canister without cracking it. ) I might try the boiling water technique.

  3. #13

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    It is still possible. if wired in Parallel I believe you add the mA togather to get the total mA value. Try backing your max mA of to 15mA each as well.

  4. #14

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    If you accidentally got a few of those LEDs reversed, then that'll screw up your calculations as well. You'll end up dumping the extra current through the correctly wired LEDs.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by morpheus1977 View Post
    They are wired parallel I believe. I had all of the pos leads soldered together then going to the battery pos after the switch. The neg leads soldered together, then that line going to the battery line... It was supposed to be a simple circuit. I had the exact same setup with my GOW lancer and that worked perfectly.... (very weird). all I am tying to do is to get a small clear ammo canister to light up.. I think I may have been way over thinking it.. What I may do is go to wallmart, in the automotive section they have strips of LEDS you can buy for your car that usually come with a try me button. I may just get one of those, and attach a latching switch to the leds and put those inside the canister.
    My original idea was to have it light up when I attach it to the blaster.. But I think my new idea will be better. (I just have to figure out how to open the canister without cracking it. ) I might try the boiling water technique.


    be careful to understand what LED STRIPS you get form places like this..

    usually these are 12v led strips (intended to run from the car battery)

    it woul dbe better to source individual +3.3v (or whatever) leds..

    usually Reds run at around 1.7-2.2v.. greens/blues usually at or around +3.0-3.3v

    each taking roughly 20mA..

    of course check the specs for the leds you DO buy.. as this can vary from vendor to vendor.

    if you do get some 3'ish voltage leds.. maybe do two in series (to help dissipate) the heat if using +7.4v pack..

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by xl97 View Post
    be careful to understand what LED STRIPS you get form places like this..

    usually these are 12v led strips (intended to run from the car battery)

    it woul dbe better to source individual +3.3v (or whatever) leds..

    usually Reds run at around 1.7-2.2v.. greens/blues usually at or around +3.0-3.3v

    each taking roughly 20mA..

    of course check the specs for the leds you DO buy.. as this can vary from vendor to vendor.

    if you do get some 3'ish voltage leds.. maybe do two in series (to help dissipate) the heat if using +7.4v pack..
    That's a good idea, wire them in serial like string blades.

  7. #17

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    What do you mean by canister? If you mean an actual Magpul type polymag. They are sonically welded...not getting it apart without breaking it. You'll have to get the spring to separate from the follower. Sometimes you can get the floor plate to release and just glue it back on with cyano.

  8. #18

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    Mate there's no way you will finish this within 4 days

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