Planning my first saber: Savage Opress saber staff questions

[Techne]

Hello everyone, I am going to see what I can do about making Savage Opress's saberstaff.

This will be my first saber, so bear with me. I'm an artist, and have made a couple other costumes, including a TK suit for the 501st, but I don't have a huge sculptural or electronic background. And while I've got a decent enough collection of hand tools and woodworking tools, I don't have any metal-working tools other than my trusty dremel. So, we'll see how this goes, and tips will always be appreciated.

My basic plan is to use TCSS electronics and blade, and probably build the handle out of PVC, since the possible TCSS parts aren?t quite accurate to the original, and I?m going for accuracy.

I have two main questions, with a couple sub questions. The two main ones are, does my electronic kit seem complete, and what do you think about the handle materials.

ELECTRONICS:

Having looked at the basic recommended-buy list, here?s what I?ve got in my wishlist.
--8/32 blade retention screw
--Rebel Star LED/MHSV1 Heatsink module
--Backpack 700mA 4-wire
--7.4 Li-ion 1050mAh 14650 battery pack
--Corbin-style show blade 1? OD 36? long
--heat shrink

Two of each, of course, since it?s a saber staff, except the heat shrink which I understand should be plenty.

I am planning on skipping sound for now, and adding it in later after I know what I?m doing. I assume that I can splice the sound stuff in, and I won?t have to ruin all the electronics I would already have in there? Or would it require me to get all new other electronics in order to accommodate the sound tech, in which case I might as well do the sound from the start.

Blade length?too long? In the show, Opress?s blades look full length. I?m 6?1?, and I do kung fu, where I use an 8' pole in a form. Obviously a saber staff is not the same as a pole, but I would think it might be close enough. But, I am curious to hear about blade length from anyone else who has made or used a saber staff.

MATERIALS:

I mocked up the best version I could using TCSS. Here?s a pic:

Screen Shot 2016-07-13 at 11.50.13 PM.jpg

It uses MHSV1 blade holder 12, choke 1 long, hilt 3, and a double-ended male connector style 1 to attach it to another of the same kind.

Here's the actual saber for comparison:

SavageOpressLightsaber-TCWs5.jpg

So the best TCSS parts I can get are not quite accurate, especially in the handle obviously, although the blade holder and choke are pretty close, I think. So I?ve got 2 options as I see it: I could use the TCSS blade holder and choke, and then make the handle out of PVC and other materials, or I could just make the whole thing out of PVC.

If I go with a mix of TCSS parts and PVC, I?m worried about the materials working together well, especially visually. Even after weathering etc., I think they might just be too obviously different.

But, if I go with all PVC, I am worried about whether the blade will stay firm in the blade holder that I construct. Would the blade retention screw stay firm, or get wiggly over time, especially in mock combat? I know that you can make the PVC handles, for instance I?ve looked at Jay-Gon's demo for making kids? PVC handles, but what are people?s experience with actually using them over time?

I guess that?s my main questions for now. (To reiterate: How?s my electronics list? Would I have to completely overhaul the electronics if I add sound in later? What do you think about 36? blades for a staff saber? And what do you think about materials for the handle?)

I appreciate any input, and look forward to being part of the community.

[Cire Yeldarb]

Depending on what Sound Card you upgrade to later, you may have to do a lot of switching out...

If you upgrade to the simplest soundcard, the Nano Biscotte, you have to get rid of the buckpuck first off (use resistors instead), move from a latching switch to a momentary switch, and go from a 7.4V to 3.7V battery pack.

If you go with the more complicated Petite Crouton or Crystal Focus, you can keep the latching switch and 7.4V battery pack, but still have to get rid of the buckpuck. But its more complicated and expensive, and you may not utilize all their extra features...

[Techne]

Depending on what Sound Card you upgrade to later, you may have to do a lot of switching out...

If you upgrade to the simplest soundcard, the Nano Biscotte, you have to get rid of the buckpuck first off (use resistors instead), move from a latching switch to a momentary switch, and go from a 7.4V to 3.7V battery pack.

If you go with the more complicated Petite Crouton or Crystal Focus, you can keep the latching switch and 7.4V battery pack, but still have to get rid of the buckpuck. But its more complicated and expensive, and you may not utilize all their extra features...

Thanks, I appreciate the detailed answer!

[jbkuma]

I think most of the modifications can be made using the pieces you selected. The grip can be augmented with shroud material and rubber grip pieces, and the choke can be augmented with some other tubing and bits. Overall, I think getting it close is pretty achievable with just "TCSS" parts. If you keep looking around at build logs you might get some ideas on how to get this build where you want it.

[NaasadTal]

The mock up you did in the MHS Builder actually looks pretty darn close, JBKUMA already gave the suggestions for the body that I was going to, get a piece of the shroud material & use small set screws (1/4" 10-32) to attach it to your hilt it'll be a little bit more difficult to disassemble, but it'll be doable. You will have to figure out the claws on your own tho as TCSS doesn't sell any...yet

I can't really offer too much in the way of advice on electronics as I am still in the learning stages myself, but as far as your heatsink goes (unless I'm missing something), you will need one for each set of LEDs. You're basically going to be building 2 identical sabers so everything (except maybe the soundboard & switch) will need to be doubled up.

The saber I built as a stand in for my Starkiller costume is all PVC & in all honesty, I wouldn't trust it with anything less than a couple light strikes & even then I'd be worried about it breaking. I have however had no issue with keeping the blade locked in place using 10-32 set screws, which have been repeatedly unscrewed to release the blade & plug I have been using in it

In the show (I actually was just watching those episodes Thursday night), his blades are VERY VERY long, I'd venture a guess that they are full length 40in blades easy. But Savage is SLIGHTLY bigger than an average male so I would image a staff with 40in blades would be a tad unwieldy for you. Honestly for a staff I wouldn't go much longer than 30in, but even that might be a bit much depending on the total length of the hilt.

Hope this info helps & I look forward to seeing your build progress.

[Techne]

I think most of the modifications can be made using the pieces you selected. The grip can be augmented with shroud material and rubber grip pieces, and the choke can be augmented with some other tubing and bits. Overall, I think getting it close is pretty achievable with just "TCSS" parts. If you keep looking around at build logs you might get some ideas on how to get this build where you want it.

The mock up you did in the MHS Builder actually looks pretty darn close, JBKUMA already gave the suggestions for the body that I was going to, get a piece of the shroud material & use small set screws (1/4" 10-32) to attach it to your hilt it'll be a little bit more difficult to disassemble, but it'll be doable. You will have to figure out the claws on your own tho as TCSS doesn't sell any...yet

I can't really offer too much in the way of advice on electronics as I am still in the learning stages myself, but as far as your heatsink goes (unless I'm missing something), you will need one for each set of LEDs. You're basically going to be building 2 identical sabers so everything (except maybe the soundboard & switch) will need to be doubled up.

The saber I built as a stand in for my Starkiller costume is all PVC & in all honesty, I wouldn't trust it with anything less than a couple light strikes & even then I'd be worried about it breaking. I have however had no issue with keeping the blade locked in place using 10-32 set screws, which have been repeatedly unscrewed to release the blade & plug I have been using in it

In the show (I actually was just watching those episodes Thursday night), his blades are VERY VERY long, I'd venture a guess that they are full length 40in blades easy. But Savage is SLIGHTLY bigger than an average male so I would image a staff with 40in blades would be a tad unwieldy for you. Honestly for a staff I wouldn't go much longer than 30in, but even that might be a bit much depending on the total length of the hilt.

Hope this info helps & I look forward to seeing your build progress.

Thanks to both of you for your thoughts. As I look at it again, you might be right about using the store parts. I'm glad to get the input about the use of a PVC handle, and about blade size.

When you both say "shroud," am I correct that what you're referring to is what the store calls a "sleeve"--for instance the MHS Sleeve 1 which as I see has the ridges just like I would need for the joint between the handles. That was one of my main concerns before, now that I see that there is such a thing it makes it seem much more workable. The claws at the ends, you're right, I'll have to mock up on my own, or get elsewhere although I don't know if the attachment points would work.

[NaasadTal]

The Sleeve that you are looking at is only 4" long & might work, but you'd have to get at least 2 of them to make the grip.

The Sleeve material (link below) is what I would recomend to make the grip section on your hilt. It comes in 12 & 18" lengths & is designed to slip over MHS parts, then you can apply the grips (link below) from the store to it.
Sleeve material - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...l-12-P468.aspx
Grips - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/6-...et-8-P376.aspx (these are 8" long, but Tim does offer custom grips if you need them longer)

As far as the attachment for the claws go, all you'd need to do is to drill & tap screw holes in the blade holders. then put screws thru the claws & your set. If you know someone with the tools to do it, you could machine a shallow groove for the claws to sit in, but it wouldn't really be necessary.

[Techne]

Depending on what Sound Card you upgrade to later, you may have to do a lot of switching out...

If you upgrade to the simplest soundcard, the Nano Biscotte, you have to get rid of the buckpuck first off (use resistors instead), move from a latching switch to a momentary switch, and go from a 7.4V to 3.7V battery pack.

If you go with the more complicated Petite Crouton or Crystal Focus, you can keep the latching switch and 7.4V battery pack, but still have to get rid of the buckpuck. But its more complicated and expensive, and you may not utilize all their extra features...

Having done a bit more research since I last responded to this, I now have a question: I've seen other people also mention that one should use a momentary switch instead of a latching switch for the Nano Biscotte (which I think I will now use). But I don't understand why the use of a momentary switch for this particular sound card. Is it just that you only want the sound to be on for a short time, so you might as well use a switch that is only on while you hold it down? But then why the use of a latching switch for the other sound cards?

The especial reason I ask is that since this is a saberstaff and I'll be twirling it around during fights/to show it off. Which means that unlike a normal saber, my hand won't be in a stationary location on the hilt to keep pressing a button down. So it seems like a latching switch would work better, if it indeed is compatible with the Nano Biscotte.

[Greenie]

The Nano only works with a mom switch. One press and it's on, an extended press and it's off.

Check out some videos to see it 'in action' . http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...nd-onboard-PEx

[Silver Serpent]

That is correct. Some of the other boards have an option to use either switch, but they still function the same. Press to turn on, press again to turn off. You don't hold down the button to keep the saber on with any of the sound boards.