Understanding Resistor Calculations for NBv3 Tri-Cree Setup

[TheCheeker]

I have the following LEDs that I need to wire in my NBv3 saber:

Tri-Cree B/B/W:
Blue = 3.47V (1A)
Blue = 3.47V (1A)
White = 3.15V (1A) (FoC)
Green Accent LED = 2.2V (25mA) (on when saber is not asleep)
Blue Ring Switch LED = 3.3V (20mA)

I know the formula for Ohm's Law is simple math to calculate and gives me these resistor values (before any rounding to what's available):

Tri-Cree B/B/W:
Blue = (3.7V - 3.47V) / 1A = .23 Ohms ---------- .23 Ohms * 1A^2 = .23W
Blue = (3.7V - 3.47V) / 1A = .23 Ohms ---------- .23 Ohms * 1A^2 = .23W
White = (3.7V - 3.15V) / 1A = .55 Ohms ---------- .55 Ohms * 1A^2 = .55W
Green Accent LED = (3.7V - 2.2V)/ .025A = 60 Ohms ---------- 60 Ohms * .025A^2 = .0375W
Blue Ring Switch LED = (3.7V - 3.3V)/.02A = 20 Ohms ---------- 20 Ohms * .02A^2 = .8W

First question --> Is my math correct?
Second question --> Does it present a problem that the amperage when everything is on at once is 3045mA when the battery is rated at 2400mAh? Or does that just mean that if everything were on at the same time for long enough, the battery would last less than an hour?

Thanks!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yes, the calculations are correct.

No, the mAh rating is a measurement of Amperage supplied over time (hours).

[Silver Serpent]

mAh is a measure of the capacity of the battery.

For a rough idea of how long your battery will last, divide the mAh of your battery by the mA used by your electronics. In your case, that would be 2400mAh / 3045mA = 0.78 hours (about 47 minutes). In practice, that runtime will usually be somewhat less than that. It's good for an estimate though.

[TheCheeker]

So, I bought resistors online that are all spot on with the calculations above. I read in another thread that the max current the NBv3 will allow is 2A. With my FoC, illuminated switch, and accent LED all pushing the current over 2A, am I going to run into issues?

[jbkuma]

The FoC pad is handled separately. It might be worth noting that I connected an ammeter in line with my NBv3 and found that under normal operation, with the sound at full and powering the R and rB dies on a tri Cree, it was pulling around 3amps. You don't have to run the dies at the full 2A if you are concerned about power. I've balanced my R and rB dies to pull around 1.85amps total, mostly because my bench power source was hitting it's peak draw and dropping out. My import battery from the local tinker shop couldn't even handle that.

[Jawa_Jedi]

Awesome thx for the maths and long hand working. Ive been reading about Ohms law for most of the afternoon, but ur applyed examples are very helpful to get a grasp on it. Btw it seems we're using the same components (minus the light up switch and in place a 2nd accent). Ive been watching rob from CSS wire the tri cree to NBv3 , pretty simple but i plan to hit alota things so the FoC resister info is much appricated. Cheers mate