Satale Shan Lightsaber help

[PhoenixHawk]

Boshwan527 has a link to slothfurnace build on the first page....and shows how he did the claws on page 3 an 4. So alcadude could go there and see how he made his....with a hacksaw, drill...an files...lol http://slothfurnace.com/sabers/TORConsular_01.html

[FenixFire]

Boshwan527 has a link to slothfurnace build on the first page....and shows how he did the claws on page 3 an 4. So alcadude could go there and see how he made his....with a hacksaw, drill...an files...lol http://slothfurnace.com/sabers/TORConsular_01.html

Genius that's the one, just didn't look far enough to through. Threading the exterior of the socket head was brilliant that was what I remembered from the posting.

[alcadude]

Could I get sheet metal then Dremel it ?

[FenixFire]

You are going to want plate aluminum about 3/8" think, if you use the bolt method shown in the posts, not sheet metal. Well unless you have a good way of break forming or stamping it to shape. Stacking it together like laminate will be difficult to solder/weld together, in any type of visually clean way, to form the 1/4" stack. If you go slow and are fully aware that there will be dozens of hours of hand sanding and filing into shape, you could rough cut the 1/4 sheet with a dremel. Though if you do not have access to a vertical metal band saw I would suggest looking into a jewelers saw and some jewelers files while you are at it. The saw frames are fairly cheap and is essentially a coping saw, the blades range in price depending on material intended to cut and the tooth construction and count. You might also look into having the main form waterjet cut out of 3/8" T6 aluminum. Should be less than $20 per pair if you find a shop that will use some of their scrap aluminum, or that will run some scrap that you find from a local metal salvage/recycle.

PS, most recyclers/salvage yards sell scraps and cut remnants by the pound. I have built 2 complete custom hilts for under $55 in aluminum and brass materials, and I still have about 12" of 1.5" diameter .0625" wall and 14" of 1.25" diameter .0625" wall and 10" of 1.5" diameter .125" wall, and several rods of brass ranging from 1/4" though 3/4", as well as various scraps of flat stock waiting to be machined to their pre-destined glory.

[Denz]

3/8" is to thick for the fins. Use 1/4"

-Denzil

[alcadude]

thanks for the help

[FenixFire]

3/8" is to thick for the fins. Use 1/4"

-Denzil

I thought so to, but the tutorial posted put a 1/4x20 thread on the exterior head of the bolt. So if he was intending to use that tutorial as gospel then 1/4 would be to thin.

Alcadude, use the 1/4 but scale down the attachment rod/bolt diameter as well.

Edit; never mind bolt head is external to the fins, in the "cylindrical nut" realized it as typing the above out.

[sks1138]

Here's another Satele saber build --- http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...light=republic

[Denz]

I thought so to, but the tutorial posted put a 1/4x20 thread on the exterior head of the bolt. So if he was intending to use that tutorial as gospel then 1/4 would be to thin.

Alcadude, use the 1/4 but scale down the attachment rod/bolt diameter as well.

Edit; never mind bolt head is external to the fins, in the "cylindrical nut" realized it as typing the above out.

FWIW I have personally seen, touched, handled Slothfurnace's Satele Consular saber. Those connecting rods are 10-32.

-Denzil

[FenixFire]

FWIW I have personally seen, touched, handled Slothfurnace's Satele Consular saber. Those connecting rods are 10-32.

-Denzil

Yeap, we already corrected that statement, after re reading I realized the 1/4x20 head was still external to the bar stock.