Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 25

Thread: MHS Padawan Sabers

  1. #11


    I'm going with 12mm switches instead of 16mm to help trim down cost. That and to accommodate little fingers, lol.

  2. #12


    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Well, when you see the result, don't say we didn't try to warn you.
    But the joy is the same place that sells the quad rebel will make custom quads with Crees on the star! Just have to call the very eager sales rep.

    You would be surprised what just calling and asking will get you. I got a full 4'x8' sheet of 1/4" kydex shipped to me for free once because I told the sales person on the phone I was a product designer working on an adjustable ckeek piece for a precision rifle. Was hoping for a 12"x12" sample. Ended up making almost $800 worth of profit off the custom knife sheaths, cheek rests and concealed carry holsters I made from it.
    Last edited by FenixFire; 07-08-2016 at 09:26 PM.

  3. #13


    Been doing some more reading and I have a better plan for the LEDs...

    Green/Green/Amber (obsessed with lime atm) and RBlue/RBlue/Blue (unless I can get cyan). Run the odd man out at reduced power during normal operation and then FoC will drive it to full. That'll give the kids the visual component they love without washing out the color and making the most of a tri-led setup.

  4. #14


    I got luck and found a few MHS parts for sale via facebook. I'll be able to get a little variety in the hilts now.

  5. #15


    Got everything else I needed on order last night. I'm hoping that it arrives with enough time left for assembly before the littlest padawans has to go home.

    I opted to use hilt styles 2 and 3, instead of using the same thing. The pommels and trim rings still match. The Guardian will end up getting BH25, and the Consular BH19. If I'd had more time I'd have gotten some powder coating done, but naked aluminum will do just fine for now.

    Decided to stick to current standard for the LEDs: GGW and BBW with matching switches. I'll be trying something new for the quick disconnects, if there is room. I was hoping to avoid cramfu this time, but with these short sabers it seems to be unavoidable. The backup plan is to go forward with the chokes if I end up needing the room. Some have suggested I ditch the sleds, but these are for kids and the sled will help protect the electronics far better than the usual chassis.

    I'll take WIP picks as I go and share a wiring diagram once I've settled on a configuration. Speaking of which I noted a shortage of decent NBV3 wiring diagrams out there.

  6. #16

    Default least a thin layer of clear. Don't want the little ones hands turning black from the Aluminum Oxide build might not let you continue the training!

  7. #17


    Quote Originally Posted by girot View Post
    Speaking of which I noted a shortage of decent NBV3 wiring diagrams out there.
    It's basically the same as the v2.

  8. #18


    Pretty much. Just ignore the PEX and use a single wire instead of that mess. Still, it'll give me an excuse to play around on photoshop for an afternoon.

  9. #19


    Updated Concepts



    So my brain auto corrected "Will fit in a 5" or longer..." to "This thing is 5" long...". I measured the one I have this morning and it came in at 3.7" total length. This is REALLY good news as the cramfu situation has just all but gone away.

  10. #20


    I think that building my own battery packs has to be the most unnerving thing ever. It's like doing surgery on a live hand grenade.

    Oh, I've gotten in enough parts to start on one of the electronics packages. I'm a little more out of practice that I remember though and have already (potentially) trashed the bass speaker and did serious damage to the V6 sled. All salvageable, I hope. The speaker is kind of a mystery though as I cannot see how it's wired beyond where the little tabs stick out of the plastic frame. When I was trying to remove old wires from them they sort of... extended a bit. They didn't come out all the way, but they did move. I haven't seen them do that before and heating them up again I was able to push them back in. Well, if I don't get sound I'll know why. Going to order a round of fresh speakers just in case. If all goes well I should have the entire sled wired and wrapped by the end of the night. All I'll need to do next is the AV switch and the emitter and the first saber is ready to go.

Tags for this Thread


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts