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Thread: NB3 Deep sleep issue

  1. #11

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    Based on the image also check the main led and foc pad to be sure they are not bridged.

  2. #12
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    they are not bridged I just double checked. And I'm re-soldering the main led + to make it neater. back to what you said before about what if the board was powered while I was soldering. If that did happen by accident am I out a board and battery? just a board?
    Darjetii, chaabar te genet jetiise, kaysh tion'ad taylir te vorpan kal. Kaysh oya'karir gar jii. Kyr'am cuyir gebbar de.

  3. #13

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    Possibly. It's generally frowned upon. Ther is a guy who repairs them on the boards message Forgetful Jedi Knight he can get you his name.

  4. #14

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    There's a known issue that can happen sometimes when soldering on boards where the battery hasn't been physically disconnected. Because the recharge ports' switch only cuts the negative lead, the positive lead remains directly attached to the board. Soldering irons are generally grounded, so sometimes a charge can run through the board from the positive power lead through to the soldering iron. I fried two PC3.5 boards like that. Zook is the guy FenixFire mentioned, he's also known as Chewbacca on the FX-Saber forums. He can generally fix/replace fried components.

    Once everything is reconnected, try pulling the killkey. If you get the boot sound, try turning it on and test the connections with a voltmeter. If it doesn't boot, test the 3.3V pad to see if it's outputting any power.

  5. #15
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    Thought I replied but I guess not. Anyway I cut all my wires and did tests with the battery. All LEDs fire right up as well as the AV LED. The speaker came apart at some point which is weird because I had it disconnected. I couldn't find any shorts or exposed wire in any of my lines and everything that should be getting power works perfectly when tested with the battery pack. Seeing that everything but the board works I decided to just go ahead and order a new NBv3 and a harness to hopefully prevent any screw-ups on my end in the second round. I'd rather have a new one than risk getting mine repaired, I can spare $60, its a learning experience.

    I just want to know, and I'm asking everybody I can, do you think I damaged the DS chip when I soldered that [+] lead for my AV LED? That's the only reasoning I can form for the sabers apparent inability to go to sleep. The LED on the switch would go out for a half second with the boot sound, then it would fire right back up. How do I prevent that on the next board if that is the case as that pad is literally millimeters away from the DS chip.
    Darjetii, chaabar te genet jetiise, kaysh tion'ad taylir te vorpan kal. Kaysh oya'karir gar jii. Kyr'am cuyir gebbar de.

  6. #16
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    In response to sgcdialler, should I solder (or join via JST) my battery last then in my next build so as to prevent such a thing from happening?
    Darjetii, chaabar te genet jetiise, kaysh tion'ad taylir te vorpan kal. Kaysh oya'karir gar jii. Kyr'am cuyir gebbar de.

  7. #17

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    I would recommend keeping the battery connected via JST, if you have the room in your hilt for it, so that it can be quickly and completely disconnected any time you need to work on the electronics. I built a saber that didn't have any room for the JST connector, so to mock a JST, I had the power leads from the battery connected in the middle, so rather than a single wire running to the board, it was two with a solder joint in the middle (I can post a pic or two if that's confusing).

    To answer your question about the DS chip, the deep sleep function is part of the software. The chip you're referring to is the board's main processor, and it's entirely possible that it could be burnt toast. Is the chip physically damaged, in any way that you can tell? Did you scorch the pad next to it when you were soldering?

    Just to be sure, you have been removing the SD card before doing any soldering, correct?

  8. #18
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    Yes, in fact the SD card was in my computer at the times when I was doing solder work as I was editing the swing, FoC and Deep settings. As for the processor (I just called it the DS pad because the manual referred to it as such) the only damage I saw was a bit of cosmetic damage on the very top where it looks like the plastic got hot then immediately cooled. Here is the best pic I cold get of it, sorry if its hard to see, getting any closer ruins the focus and adding any more light washes it out to where you cant see anything. --> http://imgur.com/fU7I7D2

    As you can see, the part of the chip which is close to the pad I'm using has the faintest sheen or bubble to it where it is closest to my joint. Could this have caused my issue? How do I avoid it in the future if that is the case?
    Darjetii, chaabar te genet jetiise, kaysh tion'ad taylir te vorpan kal. Kaysh oya'karir gar jii. Kyr'am cuyir gebbar de.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by sgcdialler View Post
    The chip you're referring to is the board's main processor, and it's entirely possible that it could be burnt toast. Is the chip physically damaged, in any way that you can tell? Did you scorch the pad next to it when you were soldering?
    Exactly why my first NB build had the always on low-power crystal glow effect deleted when I say how small the board and that DS pad actually were!

  10. #20
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    In addition to my previous question, is it possible that I may have bridged my DS pad to the teeth of the processor chip if I used too much?
    Darjetii, chaabar te genet jetiise, kaysh tion'ad taylir te vorpan kal. Kaysh oya'karir gar jii. Kyr'am cuyir gebbar de.

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