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Thread: Wiring check; externally driven Lightsaber

  1. #1

    Default Wiring check; externally driven Lightsaber

    Hi!

    Since the recharge ports are also available in smaller sizes I thought about putting 3 more in the bottom or side of my saber and build a stand with the plugs connected to an external driver. In theory that should decouple the LEDs from the CF/PC (not sure about it) and drive them in series from my pwm driver in the stand. Part time light saber part time lamp .
    However I am not an electronics engineer and we only coverd so much electronic basics in school so please look over the wiring diagram and tell me if I got this straight or not.

    Link [Edit: New diagram with normal LEDs]

    Thanks in advance!


    P.S.: The LEDs in the diagram are 2b in series, 1g & 1w FoC via the CE.
    Last edited by rumlyne; 06-17-2016 at 12:31 AM. Reason: Error in diagram; Smart-LEDs

  2. #2

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    What a cool idea.

    One thing I notice is you don't have resisters on your diagram.

  3. #3

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    You listed the leds as "SmartLEDs" was this a software only reference or are you actually using NeoPixles? I ask because the NeoPixles require the drivers built into arduino style boards. Because of the specific type of coading being provided to the LEDs onboard chip the CF/PC will most likely not control them properly. Never tried it though so who knows.
    Last edited by FenixFire; 06-16-2016 at 01:25 PM.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by FenixFire View Post
    You listed the leds as "SmartLEDs" was this a software only reference or are you actually using NeoPixles? I ask because the NeoPixles require the drivers built into arduino style boards. Because of the specific type of coading being provided to the LEDs onboard chip the CF/PC will most likely not control them properly. Never tried it though so who knows.
    ^ this.

    Please explain what these 'smart leds' are?

    Your 'lamp' base would work if it had a microcontroller in it (ie: Arduino as mentioned) and would be dead simple.

    However.. your use of the CF (again as mentioned by FenixFire) would be moot.

    Really just a normal LED/CF hook up.. with a direct connection (by-pass) to the lamp base to the LEDs... with a constant current driver and controlled using an Arduino

    same approach.. but no Neopixels. (ie: smart leds)

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by rlobrecht View Post
    What a cool idea.

    One thing I notice is you don't have resisters on your diagram.
    Thanks! The CF/PC & CE use constant current drivers so no resistors.


    Quote Originally Posted by FenixFire View Post
    You listed the leds as "SmartLEDs" was this a software only reference or are you actually using NeoPixles? I ask because the NeoPixles require the drivers built into arduino style boards. Because of the specific type of coading being provided to the LEDs onboard chip the CF/PC will most likely not control them properly. Never tried it though so who knows.
    Sorry for the confusion. I use normal crees and just picked a random LED symbol from the library of the program I used for the diagram. I just fixed it and it should now say XQ-E.


    Quote Originally Posted by xl97 View Post
    ^ this.

    Please explain what these 'smart leds' are?

    Your 'lamp' base would work if it had a microcontroller in it (ie: Arduino as mentioned) and would be dead simple.

    However.. your use of the CF (again as mentioned by FenixFire) would be moot.

    Really just a normal LED/CF hook up.. with a direct connection (by-pass) to the lamp base to the LEDs... with a constant current driver and controlled using an Arduino

    same approach.. but no Neopixels. (ie: smart leds)
    For test purposes I orderd a pwm controller from china but for the final design I also favour an arduino or something similar. The ability to remote control it makes it very compelling!

    I'm not sure I understand the meaning of 'moot' although I translated it... If you mean to say that the CF cannot control the neopixels I agree. If you think the CF is underused in this configuration I agree too.

    The PLI from the accent pads are not yet in the diagram and althgough I would like to try and build a basic crystal chamber (and thus using more accent pads) I'm not sure there will be enough room in my hilt. After all I want to cram the CF, 2 18650 batteries and speaker in there - preferably in a simple chassis and keep everything easy to disassemble and repair and make the LED-module interchangeableby using connectors and all of that will need a lot of space. Maybe if I go with a smaller battery pack but then I would also need a new charger and that would drive the costs up.

    But one step at a time. For now I'm glad to know that the basic design will work. The rest will lay itself out as soon as my hilt arrives. (SF ASP probably was mistake but I will make the best out of it)


    Thanks for your help guys!
    Last edited by rumlyne; 06-17-2016 at 01:21 AM. Reason: grammar and idioms

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by rumlyne View Post
    Thanks! The CF/PC & CE use constant current drivers so no resistors.



    Sorry for the confusion. I use normal crees and just picked a random LED symbol from the library of the program I used for the diagram. I just fixed it and it should now say XQ-E.



    For test purposes I orderd a pwm controller from china but for the final design I also favour an arduino or something similar. The ability to remote control it makes it very compelling!

    I'm not sure I understand the meaning of 'moot' although I translated it... If you mean to say that the CF cannot control the neopixels I agree. If you think the CF is underused in this configuration I agree too.

    The PLI from the accent pads are not yet in the diagram and althgough I would like to try and build a basic crystal chamber (and thus using more accent pads) I'm not sure there will be enough room in my hilt. After all I want to cram the CF, 2 18650 batteries and speaker in there - preferably in a simple chassis and keep everything easy to disassemble and repair and make the LED-module interchangeableby using connectors and all of that will need a lot of space. Maybe if I go with a smaller battery pack but then I would also need a new charger and that would drive the costs up.

    But one step at a time. For now I'm glad to know that the basic design will work. The rest will lay itself out as soon as my hilt arrives. (SF ASP probably was mistake but I will make the best out of it)


    Thanks for your help guys!

    Moot:
    adjective
    1. of little or no practical value or meaning;

    You got it...

    CF wont be able to control the Neopixels.. (if that is in fact what you mean by 'smart leds'... has that been cleared up?)

    I say build the hilt/saber you want FIRST...

    then worry about modifying things for the lamp effect later perhaps?

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by xl97 View Post
    Moot:
    adjective
    1. of little or no practical value or meaning;

    You got it...

    CF wont be able to control the Neopixels.. (if that is in fact what you mean by 'smart leds'... has that been cleared up?)

    I say build the hilt/saber you want FIRST...

    then worry about modifying things for the lamp effect later perhaps?
    Unless the main end goal is a Saber Light that doubles as a Light Saber Prop, instead of the Light Saber prop that doubles as a Saber Light. Funny how perspective changes the view of everything.

  8. #8

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    I've actually been working out similar things. I am using some neopixels and a pro mini. I was planning on making a mount with a built in ftdi connector so I can both power and program.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by xl97 View Post
    Moot:
    adjective
    1. of little or no practical value or meaning;

    You got it...

    CF wont be able to control the Neopixels.. (if that is in fact what you mean by 'smart leds'... has that been cleared up?)

    I say build the hilt/saber you want FIRST...

    then worry about modifying things for the lamp effect later perhaps?
    Thanks that makes more sense than the translation google threw at me.

    It's normal crees. I cleared it up in the post you quoted. Sry for the confusion.

    Well I have to take into consideration the room I need for the 3 jacks and the wiring and where to put them. But yeah the wiring diagram is all I can do for now.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by jbkuma View Post
    I've actually been working out similar things. I am using some neopixels and a pro mini. I was planning on making a mount with a built in ftdi connector so I can both power and program.
    Interesting! I thought of putting a RICE port next to the LED jacks but decided against it. Swapping SD cards is fast enough and I don't think I will change much once its set up properly.


    Quote Originally Posted by FenixFire View Post
    Unless the main end goal is a Saber Light that doubles as a Light Saber Prop, instead of the Light Saber prop that doubles as a Saber Light. Funny how perspective changes the view of everything.
    Tomato, tomato.

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