Aluminum Black, best results?

**Darkmatter73** · 06-12-2016, 05:48 PM

Hi all.
Got some Aluminum Black not too long ago, and have been experimenting with it. So far, my results are "meh". I've seen some great weathering and effects with it, but not getting those results myself yet.
So far I've used a couple MHS pieces as well as some 6061 test panels I have for testing paints, etching etc.
I've followed the instructions, but it seems to come out just blotchy and barely gray. I've tried it with the parts as is, and also super cleaned with acetone. I've tried heating the parts, and a few different application methods.
It just never goes on like I've seen on other vids. I understand the alloy of your material will affect the finish, but 6061 is most of what our sabers are.

This might sound counter-intuitive, as I'm trying to weather the parts and make them dirty looking. I don't know, it just doesn't feel right.

Anyone who's had decent results share any tips? I'd appreciate it.
Thanks
-Darkmatter73

**Noyl Wendor** · 06-14-2016, 12:28 AM

I've used birchwood casey's a few times. Here's what I ended up with as my latest build.
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...-inspired-hilt
Basic idea for me was to hit the parts with a lighter grit sandpaper (220) or close. Then medium steel wool, fine steel wool. Clean it down with paper towel (no soap, acetone or any cleaning chemicals). Then do the first layer of casey's. Let it dry for 20 min or so, and do a second coat.
Depending on how dark you want the metal to look. Repeat. Once I got to my desired look, I would do one more coat, then go over it with fine steel wool. Wipe it down and repeat as needed/wanted. I've been chucking my MHS parts to a hand drill, so when I do the light sandpaper and the steel wool (fine and medium) it comes out pretty even.
You can use the little daubers with the wire handle, but I've found using clean cloth (old t-shirt material, cloth shop rags) makes a difference in coverage.
When I'm done about three coats of clear acrylic paint (spray can, follow directions on the back) seals the casey's pretty nicely.
A couple things to keep in mind. Use safety gear, gloves, mask, eye protection. Casey's can be nasty smelling, the fumes it gives off are harmful. So best be outside in open air when working with it. Same goes for the spray paint. As well if you choose to use the "paint and bake" method for the clear spray paint. Use an old toaster oven, in an open safe area. Don't want fumes from casey's alublack lingering about the house

I hope I helped for what its worth.
Good luck with your weathering

**darth_chasm** · 06-14-2016, 07:12 AM

I've done it pretty much the same way as Noyl states above and have also tried a light salt water etch on the pieces that worked well. Basically, the solution doesn't play well with smooth/polished surfaces.

You can also submerge pieces and let them sit If you want a really dark black surface. Obviously, you'll need to protect any areas you don't want affected. And be careful. This will create a lot of visible smoke/fumes.

**Darth Nurse** · 06-14-2016, 11:24 AM

When doing this weathering job, I did the following: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ted-Grey-Relic

1. Etched the saber for the shatter
2. Cleaned with water
3. Rubbed down with a green scrub pad to remove sheen
4. cleaned with water
5. drenched with AB using a rag then let dry for 10min or so
6. Went over each part with the green scrubber until desired results

**Noyl Wendor** · 06-14-2016, 05:34 PM

Originally Posted by Darth Nurse

When doing this weathering job, I did the following: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ted-Grey-Relic

1. Etched the saber for the shatter
2. Cleaned with water
3. Rubbed down with a green scrub pad to remove sheen
4. cleaned with water
5. drenched with AB using a rag then let dry for 10min or so
6. Went over each part with the green scrubber until desired results

Nice work DN. I dig that one

.
@ Darkmatter73.. You now know a couple different methods

give them a go. Or, take whats here and figure out one that suits you. Either way when you have the chance show pics of the results. I'm interested to see how things turn out.

**Darkmatter73** · 06-14-2016, 06:18 PM

Thanks all, all good info. I'm pretty experienced in metal finishing, but you can never stop learning i say.
So the hilt I'm doing is already saltwater etched, that's why I was asking for tips. The etching came out so good, I don't want to kill it with the weathering.
It's my first fairly complex etch with my new vinyl cutter, yay!
I've been waiting for blade holders, so I can weather all the parts at once. There's some in, and I'll pick a couple up on payday.
Will post pics of course when there's something to show

Thanks again
-Darkmatter73