alternate blade retention

[Darth Vand-Alar]

Not necessarily FJK. If properly designed it could work for 90% of the styles sold in the shop now. The non-symmetrical ones would need some way other way of tightening the collet, but I have a solution in mind for that already using a spanner style threaded endcap. That style would need a tool, but still be "hidden".

i see issues arising with the 'thin necked' ones like style 5 as there isnt alot of mspace for a collet in it or the cut out ones like style 4 as you will have the collet blocking the cuttouts

I bet you could get him to call them FenixFire-style collets

personally i like CES or collet emitter system. fits in with MWS MHS and MPS which are already used by TCSS

[Mineral]

It could/would only work in certain design instances.

This is true about literally everything in the store.

Not necessarily FJK. If properly designed it could work for 90% of the styles sold in the shop now. The non-symmetrical ones would need some way other way of tightening the collet, but I have a solution in mind for that already using a spanner style threaded endcap. That style would need a tool, but still be "hidden".

Couldn't you make outer sleeves longer and asymetrical? You'd be at the mercy of the threads as to which way the slant/scoop ended up pointing, but we already carefully thread things with MHS parts.

[FenixFire]

[QUOTE=Darth Vand-Alar;258664]i see issues arising with the 'thin necked' ones like style 5 as there isnt alot of mspace for a collet in it or the cut out ones like style 4 as you will have the collet blocking the cuttouts

personally i like CES or collet emitter system. fits in with MWS MHS and MPS which are already used by TCSS[/QU

Gimme' 10 minutes Ill show you.

Edit:

So after revisiting for those; The necked down and through hole ones would require a specific base for each one.

The necked down could be like this, where the base is only threaded at the end after the visible neck. then the section that bumps back out is the outer housing. Collet could be flush or protrude creating the final ring surface. If TCSS uses one of the better PC suppliers for their tubes the extrusion tolerances should be held to @+/- 0.009" for a 1" diameter, so the ring could give a fairly seamless look.

The Through holes, well after drawing up what I had in my head, it would work great...if I where injection molding the parts; a simple male/female with a core. But not so easy machining. I will have to give it some more thought I have an Idea, but am out of time for today.

As for the Asymmetrical, yes but I and most people who would actually consider this method worth the extra $ will tend to be more perfectionists and would not tolerate relying on threads to clock the placement of the overhang. The shims would have to go on the threads between the base and the main body, potentially leaving the LED loose, not sure on this as I have only machined my bodies and emitters thus far.

[Darth Vand-Alar]

make the tightening ring longer and do the cuttouts in the extentions. the protruding collet works fine for obi-luke styled emitters, will it work for the emitters that are completely flat?

-----edit-----
btw i never considered that style i love this forum!

[Darth Vand-Alar]

now all thats needed is finding someone to make them if TCSS wont that...tim is it?...would sign off on. at worst buy 2-3 emitters (depending on weather or not you want the separate collet) and have someone mod them. btw maybe 2 styles should be done 2 piece CES for those who plan on only having one size blade or the emitter wont allow 3 pieces and a 3 piece for multiple blade sizes. personally 3 piese worries me cause im afraid the parts would get too thin but if it works it works

[Mineral]

[QUOTE=FenixFire;258667]

As for the Asymmetrical, yes but I and most people who would actually consider this method worth the extra $ will tend to be more perfectionists and would not tolerate relying on threads to clock the placement of the overhang. The shims would have to go on the threads between the base and the main body, potentially leaving the LED loose, not sure on this as I have only machined my bodies and emitters thus far.

By asymmetrical, we are talking about emitters like Style 12 and Style 20 , right? How about a 4-piece safety pill-bottle type arrangement where the outermost-sleeve/shroud can spin freely on the hilt, gear-teeth and a firm spring could hold the sleeve in the desired place, but lifting up would contact the threaded tightening ring. Then you could position the "resting" shroud where it belongs, but lift and spin it to loosen the collet.

[Darth Vand-Alar]

If emitter position is important to a design, like my katana hilt would be, then a way to position would be necessary. The simplest solution would be clocking washers. But as this is a thread for alternative styles of doing things then. Yeah, spinning shroud would be great.

[Arkanjel]

Im really glad to see this being discussed again. I asked about collet style holders a few years back and got very little response. Seems like such a simple solution. Used to use similar products on paintball gun feednecks.

[Darth Vand-Alar]

ok i have an idea. we discuses the collet system working with all emitter designs except for the cut out style emitters. i think i solved it. the collet could be made out of the same materials as the dueling blades. tbe base can have a spiral cut out. size of cutout dont matter as long as the piece is still strong. then no mater how far you turn it the light will shine through. discuss.