Anybody tried using NL4FX-type connectors for making removable string blades?
I've seen people using 1/4 headphone connectors, but I'm a little worried about pulling a few amps through one of those.
Anybody tried using NL4FX-type connectors for making removable string blades?
I've seen people using 1/4 headphone connectors, but I'm a little worried about pulling a few amps through one of those.
Heh, since this connector has 4 poles, and I only need three for the blade, I can use the last one to make the blade my kill switch.
Like so:
Code:Blade Hilt +5 ------o o----UBEC--- data-----o o----teensy ground---o o---battery negative ground---o o---ground plane
Basically the two ground wires are connected in the blade, so the ground plane inside the hilt isn't connected to the battery until the blade is inserted.
Would be even cooler if I could charge the battery through the same connector too, but that requires more connectors or some trixy electronicses.
Unless you are planning to not have the string light up sequentially, you would need a connector with at least the same number of pins as segments (usually 6) + 1 for the positive.
Most people seem to go with an 8 pin din connector.
That is unless you are planning to house the electronics in the blade itself. In which case what you are planning should work I guess.
I like this type of ham radio connectors
ham_con.jpg
They have a nice detent on the side that makes for a smooth connection when you cant see to line up the blade
APA106 LEDs are neopixel/ws2811, they only need one pin for individual LED control.
More information here: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1938 (The ones I ordered from ebay were a lot cheaper though.)
The reason I like the NF4FX type connector is because it's a bayonet-style connector. (Push in and twist) which would help lock the blade in place.
The ham radio connectors look interesting though, how big are they? Have you built a blade using those? pictures?
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