No problem.
A tip for when you don't have parts or electronics...Dimensions are easy to find with a little searching. Based on those dimensions, cut things out of paper or card board to get an idea.
would a paper towel roll work as a hilt standin
That would be a reasonable approximation.
You're definitely not going to save any space by building it yourself. You're trying to combine multiple general purpose boards and expecting that to be smaller than a single specialized board that's already been optimized for size.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
at this point im hoping to have them in the chassis without having to use acrylic disks to hold them.
so i think i got enough info on boards. the set i put together wont be as good probably but they are more for stunt than anything else really. plus i can practice my electrical skills. so if you like, you can join me HERE for discussions on my future sabers external design
^ this.
100% agree..
Trust me, I know.
I have created many boards and have used Arduino stuff extensively.
Trying 'roll your own' is fun.....
but has no real practical value (no matter how to try to spin it or justify it)
What 'we' do here.. is NOT the same as what Erv does.
Unless you are really an experienced C programmer... you'll be using pre-made libraries to work with/communicate with these external boards/components.
So your already locked into a pre-made set of 'tools' *(methods/functions) that may not meet your needs.
And you better have your coding skills up to par.. I'd say creating a good 'motion detection' system is not easy.
In general any board needs/has:
1.) Audio play back *(not only just triggering playback, but also the ability to loop sounds in a seamless/gapless loop)
2.) motion detection (either by swing/class sensors, or an accelerometer)
3.) led driver (components to effectively drive high powered leds.. now a days multipe die leds are the norm...and it needs to support blade effects... constant current drivers and not just voltage choppers)
getting all this to work in the space you have on the chip is also an obstacle at times..
not to mention any of the other cool features.. PLI, accent, leds..etc..etc...etc..
all the above being said..there is a thread/project/board already based on this ideology over at the Arduino forums.. board is available for purchase as well
primarily i want their smart leds. that way each led is the sam color so ill get even mixing. i hope
I have to agree with this as well. I have traveled the path you are suggesting and built several of my own saber boards. While rewarding, the result never came out smaller than a Plector board. Unless you plan to etch your own PCBs, I don't see how it ever will. Most Plector boards are designed so that they can lay on top of a battery in an MHS hilt and therefore they add no additional length requirement.
However, don't let that discourage you from trying and building something truly unique. Just know what you are getting into. I suggest you hit the Arduino forums. There are no fewer than three threads on this exact topic.
That's done with resistorsprimarily i want their smart leds. that way each led is the sam color so ill get even mixing. i hope
The PC & Prism both support settings for color mixing and with a R.I.C.E. port you can do it really easy.
it seems you want to do this for 2 reasons
1) save space..........................Not going to happen
2) save money/time.................Not going to happen
Based on your post count I'm guessing this is your first attempt at building a saber. May I suggest you NOT try and re-invent the wheel. Unless you have a LOT of programing and soldering experience you are going to get really frustrated. Why not have fun first and then challenge yourself with the next saber (you know you're going to build more than one ). Save up for a sound board or start with a cheap one out of a saber toy.
I believe you are talking about Neopixel strips..
This requires very precise timing to run these. (the library handles that)... that means the processor is very busy can not easily do others as well..
your other boards (and hence their own chips) might still be able to play audio.....if you can sneak a command out...
but checking the accelerometer as often as needed probably wont happen... (possibly using timer 2?)
but it doesnt sound like have you have prior experience in this stuff?
as stated the goal or cheaper, easier, small, just isnt the case.
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