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Thread: curved saber

  1. #1

    Default curved saber

    ok. i just did a little research and want a second opinion. i want a curves saber. i want one bad. so, if i use the sand bending method and replace the emitter with a pommel (both pommels will have closed inserts to keep the sand in) would i be able to do a curved saber? the electronics and chassis will be figured out later

  2. #2

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    im thinking i can get some sink tubing and an extension piece, build the saber, bend it, then cut the sink tube to the shroud i want.
    Last edited by Darth Vand-Alar; 05-03-2016 at 08:02 AM.

  3. #3

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    You might want to consider using a pre-curved vacuum cleaner wand [Google "Rainbow vacuum curved wand"] rather than trying to bend a MHS hilt part. Vacuum wands have been the basis of many curved sabers in this hobby including some well known ones.

  4. #4

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    I never knew that. But I would say it's the best way.
    I did one a few years ago and used a piece of electrical conduit that was already bent. But it took some cutting and lots or grinding out the inside to make it work.
    ~ The Yin ~

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  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Vand-Alar View Post
    ok. i just did a little research and want a second opinion. i want a curves saber. i want one bad. so, if i use the sand bending method and replace the emitter with a pommel (both pommels will have closed inserts to keep the sand in) would i be able to do a curved saber? the electronics and chassis will be figured out later
    Personally speaking from tube bending experience it is best done with pre-cut sections. This allows you to bend the section you want while having ample "flats" for the bender to grab onto. Also if bending the hilt aluminum I would strongly sugest a powered bender.

  6. #6

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    This is from a vacuum cleaner handle. Just an FYI, the metal is REALLY hard. It's thin and lightweight, but it's very difficult to drill and cut.


  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by FenixFire View Post
    Personally speaking from tube bending experience it is best done with pre-cut sections. This allows you to bend the section you want while having ample "flats" for the bender to grab onto. Also if bending the hilt aluminum I would strongly sugest a powered bender.
    thats why i want to build it first. if i use a main body or a long extender i can put the bend in without building. maybe. if i use a short extender for the bend ill need the rest of the hilt just so i can grab it. might stick a couple long bar stock just a little smaller than the ID and bend it that way. in fact the bar would help protect the threads if i build the saber first.

  8. #8

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    on a similar note, im finding it hard to locate a good place for the covertec wheel. could i use a longer screw for securing the covertec and use it as a retention screw?

  9. #9

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    You can, but you'll need to be very precise with the length of the screw. If it's too short, it won't secure your blade properly. If it's too long, the covertec button will be loose.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

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  10. #10

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    quick question: how does the vacuum hose hold up compared to 1 1/4 ID to 1 1/2 ID sink tubing?

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