Conversion LED question.

[DumpsterJedi]

Hmm. Maybe that's it. I guess the only solution to that would be to completely replace the innards?

[FenixFire]

Hmm. Maybe that's it. I guess the only solution to that would be to completely replace the innards?

No that not what we were saying. You can potentially use pnp mosfets as gates to direct drive the LEDs from the batteries, soundboard drives the gate in the pops so you still have the blade effects.

Look up the economy board wiring diagrams.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Just for information's sake, the older MR/Hasbro Force FX board running on 4.5v would usually only output between 800-1000ma of current, so a resistor was not needed. I have yet to get my hands on a newer model to measure what these ones output.

[FenixFire]

Jusy for information's sake, the older MR/Hasbro Force FX board running on 4.5v would usually only output between 800-1000ma of current, so a resistor was not needed. I have yet to get my hands on a newer model to measure what these ones output.

The Ezra Bridger with a single led and collapsible blade was outputting 20mA, I suspect blade builders would be the same. I have not torn into any Of the string blades yet.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Well, the ones I was referring to were the original metal hilts shown on the forums here in the conversion tutorials, the Master Replicas Force FX, then the later Hasbro Signature Series Force FX which have become the Black Series by Hasbro, not the plastic toys found in your local Wal-Mart. The newer boards are likely very similar as they are driving an led string blade that is very likely the same as the older models, so Dumpsterjedi probably doesn't need a resistor on the blue rebel.

[DumpsterJedi]

Okay I haven't replied in awhile because I haven't had time to get back to the Saber yet, but I just remembered something. When first putting it together I wasn't sure how the wiring worked yet (because no one has any tutorials on the black series yet) and I hooked the light directly up to the battery pack without the board to make sure the light worked, and I remember the brightness wasnt noticeably different than when I hooked everything up, so shouldn't that mean the rest of the electronics shouldn't be affecting it? Or am I wrong there? And what should I do if that's the case?

[FenixFire]

Okay I haven't replied in awhile because I haven't had time to get back to the Saber yet, but I just remembered something. When first putting it together I wasn't sure how the wiring worked yet (because no one has any tutorials on the black series yet) and I hooked the light directly up to the battery pack without the board to make sure the light worked, and I remember the brightness wasnt noticeably different than when I hooked everything up, so shouldn't that mean the rest of the electronics shouldn't be affecting it? Or am I wrong there? And what should I do if that's the case?

You hooked the battery directly to the LED without a resistor?

[DumpsterJedi]

Yes. Now I think of it, that probly wasn't too smart. I mean it wasn't for very long. Would that have harmed the led?

[Silver Serpent]

That would depend on your definition of "wasn't for very long." If you just touched the power to the LED and got it to flash, the LED star *should* keep the LED from popping, depending on your power source and Vf of the LED in question.

If the LED is working at anything other than a very dim glow, then it's probably fine. Your particular wiring setup is probably the culprit if you're having brightness issues.

[DumpsterJedi]

Right. It's definitely not "popped" and much more than a dim glow. It's definitely something you can't stare at. So would the wiring setup still be the issue if the brightness didn't change regardless of being wired or not?