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Thread: Blade Tip Adhesion

  1. #11

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    You want to make sure you have a nice flush cut on the end of the blade as well. I'll tape mine off with masking tape and then make the cut with a miter saw. Stuff some paper towel down in there before hand to keep the little dust bits from flying down the tube though and poke out out the short side along with all of the debris. The Weld on #16 has worked great for me as well.

  2. #12

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    I use a tubing cutter. It avoids the bits of plastic dust, though it can cause a little flaring around the cut.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by CET View Post
    What about threading the tip and blade?
    Have not seen it but I would suspect it would create a hot spot in the lighting as the threads would provide a lot of interrupted surface for the light to diffuse and refract out.

  4. #14
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    Use the correct glue and the blade will break in order for the tip to come off.
    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Strydur View Post
    Use the correct glue and the blade will break in order for the tip to come off.
    But what's the correct glue?

  6. #16

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    Most of us use Weldon 16 from IPS. Amazon carries it, or you could search local industrial supply houses. My $10 tube will last me forever.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quixotic Jedi View Post
    Most of us use Weldon 16 from IPS. Amazon carries it, or you could search local industrial supply houses. My $10 tube will last me forever.
    Most hardware stores should have it. Ive picked it up at Ace, True Value and HD.

  8. #18
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    We use weld-on 3 also available through Amazon
    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by CET View Post
    But what's the correct glue?
    Lexan recomennds in this order for their Poly Carb Sheets.

    Weld-on #3

    Weld-on #16

    Weld-on #40

    #3 in nice because you can use a needle bottle and capillary action (as long as the cuts are clean) for a clean glue-up. Assuming Tube/Tip works like sheet/sheet you fit the parts and then touch the needle to the joint and apply a small amount of solvent that will instantly wick into the joint. Hold it for a few seconds and its basically one piece. This is where I mentioned I use the straight Methylene Chloride to do the same process. #40 would be structurally the best because it is meant for Aquarium and Architectural applications where strength is a large factor. Though it is a 2-part mix and can be trickier to apply.
    Last edited by FenixFire; 04-18-2016 at 12:30 PM.

  10. #20

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    Weldon 3 is best, but I worry about how thin and runny it can be, so I opted for 16 which is thicker.

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