Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 21

Thread: Blade Tip Adhesion

  1. #1

    Default Blade Tip Adhesion

    I duel with my sabers at least twice a week with a local group. I've been having issues of my blade tips flying off. I've tried super glue and epoxy, and they stay put for a little while, but by the end of the night I'm often on the hunt for my lost little blade tip. I have the same issues with the corbin blades. I'm seriously thinking about melting the things on there! Any advice for better tip adhesion?

  2. #2

    Default

    Weld-On #16 is the correct plastic solvent for the job. It will permanently fuse the two pieces together if used properly.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

  4. #4

    Default

    If the 16 still fails if you have a regal plastics or another shop that specilizes in polycarbonate sheet they will have the pure solvent that is diluted for the 16. Just can't think of the chemical name at the moment.

  5. #5

    Default

    Methylene chloride is the primary solvent in Weld-On #16. It works just fine in pure form.

    Chloroform is an acceptable substitute, if you have access to it. That's what I use.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  6. #6

  7. #7

    Default

    Thanks Silver I was having a bit of mental block!

  8. #8

    Default

    After many years at the academy, I came to the conclusion that sooner or later the tip will fly off.

    I have seen several attempts to solve the problem, from increasingly stronger glue to metal pins passing through blade an tip.
    Some solutions may last more than others, but eventually the tip will take off like a rocket.

    I also observed that increasing the strongness of the binding between blade and tip is considerably increasing the risk to actually break the blade itself.
    So, I came to the conclusion that it's better to glue back a tip than replacing a whole blade.

    I normally use Pattex 100% glue, but I don't know if it can be found in the US, at least the Pattex website don't have an US section.
    The glue is strong and flexible, without solvants that may harm the policarbonate of the blade.
    Being flexible it can absorbe a lot of hits, but as I said eventually the tip will fly anyway.

    At our academy we have 9 classes per week and this is the best solution we found to avoid being constantly fixing blades.

  9. #9

    Default

    What about threading the tip and blade?

  10. #10

    Default

    Threading has been attempted at that place we can't talk about here. I have no idea how well it works apart from maybe making tip replacement faster.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •