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Thread: RR's Sith Splicer- 'other guys' overhaul (usb recharge, stunt saber) pic heavy

  1. #21

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    I know what you mean. I always try to be pleasantly surprised, because I don't want to expect it and get angry if he can't deliver the usual level of service for some reason.

  2. #22

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    Yeah, top notch- now it's too bad everyone else in the saber world didn't have customer service like this lol.

    Really excited- the choke I'll be using as an extension will arrive soon, so I'll be able to go full steam with the last aspects of this project . Had to hold off till I had that in hand just because space I'm working in is so tight- about 1" diameter by about (guessing) 1.5" length, so gonna finish/ assemble/ install design to fit. In meantime a friend gave me a wicked idea for an illuminated switch, using a blade plug and stock illuminated ring switch. Used this yellow ring momentary for test fitting, but will be done with black red ring latching AV. Also just using this vented pommel cause only one i had handy at the time- got a diff vented pommel coming in this or next week that this will actually be mounted in for good- but this will give you the basic idea anyway.
    So here's the plug as is in the vented pommel I used to test fit so can see how it started.

    Drilling this out for the switch turned out to be a nightmare lol- the holes were exactly placed where they'd give the 5/8" bit a really hard time, so ended up wrecking a $50 cobalt bit before my stubborn a$$ switched to dremel and burr/ stones, removed the material and holes from centre, then drilled out what was left. But turned out well, so live and learn lol.



    Ok, now you ever take a really close look a 5mm led? I hadn't bothered until this, but if you do you'll notice that the lense, with its typical bulb shape and tiny little flange at the base, has a small flat spot in the flange at the cathode. So if you make some holes with little notches on the bottom like this, you can actually mount the led's flush inside the poly carb tube and the led won't exceed the profile of the tube, will clear a 1" ID.











    All of that was really just to get the pattern of variation in the backlighting... So that when I add the real illuminating horse power it does this.









    That was all just thrown in loose, so you might notice sitting off center etc in some pics, but once mounted for good in the actuall parts it will sit in, with actuall switch I'm using etc., will be nice and tight/ aligned properly. Gonna be tight fitting the extra mess of wiring in, but so worth it- and obviously I can trim down the plug and wiring once I see the actuall space I'm working with. Keep you posted . MTFBWY.

  3. #23

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    What a fantastic and creative build! Can't wait to see more!

  4. #24

  5. #25

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    This is looking really good so far! If I didn't know any better, I don't think I could identify the base saber! Awesome work so far!
    "Peace is a lie. Perhaps the greatest of them all. Peace, or a lack of change equals Death. If the waters of a pool cease to move, and become stagnant, the waters poison themselves, and kill all who drink from it. Chaos, on the other hand, brings great change. Should the pool be over taken by a river, life springs anew.
    -Lord Malyce, Exile of Sith, First Warrior of Sands

  6. #26

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    Thanks so much guys! Truly appreciate . Another update coming really soon, small truckload of rods/ tubes/ etc just arrived from hobby shop, and the last of the parts for this thing are traveling towards me as I'm writing this- super excited!

  7. #27

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    Hi all .

    Sorry I've been AWOL- crazy busy few weeks but all caught up and back to banging this Frankenstein out!

    Well, turns out I'm a terrible guesser and I should have waited till I actually had the parts in hand before starting on that chassis lol- so guess who gets to scrap that whole thing and redo a much tinier, much more challenging version hahaha!

    The new base is between 3/4" and 7/8", quite a bit smaller than the mark1, though somehow I managed to fit more in this one... Funny how necessity has a way of doing that lol.

    I put another tiny hole in the dead center to run up wires, which is why those knurled nuts/ fittings are notched- they line up to form a little hole. Dropped down to 6/32 nuts here, smaller 3/16 tubes (into which will run 5/32 rods). I had to notch the brass/ copper casings to get around the base of the fittings since all crammed so tight, same reason I squished and bent the cooper one. In these pics you'll be able to get a sense of what the look will be- but they were from before I had finished cutting a lot of this stuff in- but wanted to show because in the later pics it's all in such early stages you might not be able to tell how will look. Here it is sitting in the choke/ extension.






    While I was prepping I got everything else together for reprepping because it's one heck of a rubix cube getting it all in!

    New and old for comparison:


    In a lot of these pics you'll notice everything is just sitting loose so stuff is off centre etc. Also this isn't how the wire will go at all- will be lighter guage and run diff, I had this run up to test idea and also to stand in for some test fitting with something at the upper portion of the chassis. I only had so many hands when came to taking pic so I used it to help hold the thing together lol.






    Here's the pommel switch since I've gotten ahold of the actuall vented pommel I'll be using and put in the latching AV. Prob doesnt look much diff in pics but in person it's a beautiful deep red, and I'm loving the look of the black AV with the pattern in this plug .


    Ok so there goes all the easy parts of this project lol, I miss them already! Now comes the especially fun bits, like fitting this in here lol.

    But it can be done lol . And I've got a few tricks up my sleeve when it comes to that lol, but it'll have to wait, because as I'm sure I don't have to tell you guys, when you get down to this tiny of a working space you really gotta think careful about how everything fits in, how it all gets installed and how it can be removed etc., and the order that you approach everything. It starts to feel more like a chess game than a saber build lol!
    So anyways, I've gotta do this first- now that the base of support for the telescoping chassis is narrower, I think it'll be too wobbly and insecure when getting pulled out- so I'm expanding the chassis to have an outer pair of telescoping poles, they'll fit into the choke lined up on what I'd consider to be the sides of the hilt with the exposed circuit feature and act box. This will leave one side completely open for primary access/ viewing and another side for me to attach a locking mechanism of some kind.

    Def not my finest hour in terms of dremel slips and scratching, but considering everything I have left in store for this piece (sanding the crap out of, cutting it in half right through the choke, painting, attaching all kinds of crap lol etc) I'm confident the butchery will be hidden forever lol.

    You see how there's little notches up at the top of the tubes? Those are lil windows so I'll be able to tell when the solid rods are nearing the end of their track so to speak, and avoid pulling the chassis all the way out (removing) when I don't want to.






    Aaaand repeat lol.
    The inner solid tubes aren't inserted here so you can prob notice those notches more.


    That old switch location if you remember has an accent sith a brass bezel, so now with the brass exposed down at the bottom and the splash in the act box- this will look sweet.




    And don't forget about that wire running from the act box to the bezel/ accent in front here too- gonna be a beast lol!

    This update has been brought to you by my dog, Darth Arlo, who has already claimed this saber, and for whom nothing is ever good enough lol.


    Keep you posted.
    Last edited by RevanReborn; 06-08-2016 at 02:08 PM.

  8. #28

  9. #29

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    Thanks CET . He's a character that one lol.

  10. #30

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    You can see what I mean about the chassis having a wider/ sturdier base of support now.
    Here's the plug for the switch assembly with the bottom chassis sitting more or less how it will- in between these two lines up with where the threads for the choke and vented pommel come together- there's a piece of circuit board that goes between there and locks between threads, which is how I'll fit everything- it'll all run to the two pads on that board with only a pos, neg, and the switch wires needing to run up to the rest of internals. But you can get a sense of how tight it'll be once the 7 5mm's are loaded into that plug mounting.

    I notched the sides a little more for the negative accent legs, and you can only just see the edge of one, but I put two deep channels in open spaces on the outside of the plug for where the brass rods of the chassis will fit past/ through and but down against the inner lip of the vented pommel.
    Really hoping I can recess the switch at least a little like in these pics- but every 1/32" counts down in this section so we'll see lol.



    The chassis kept collapsing on itself when I was trying to take pics, so I had to wrap little pieces of tape around the spot where the tubes go into eachother to hold it up. I haven't made holes for the outer most rods in the upper base yet so it won't quite seat all the way down, but you get the idea.






    Those black marks are just spots where I need to sand the edges a tad to tweak the centering of the switch.
    Here you can see how wiring will go. From the outside going in, we have the aluminum inner wall, then a microscopic gap for the negative accent legs and their wire, then the layer of blade plug with the 5mm's in it, then a small gap for the positive accent legs and their wire, then the AV core, all butted up against and running to that circuit board, with the bottom chassis base right on the other side of that and it's led's running there also.



    Once I get the holes in the upper chassis base for those outer most rods and tubes, I can seat it in the very top of the choke. I had to get these main structural components in before I could make the cut through the centre of the choke. I'll be doing that this weekend, and then this whole section will start to come together pretty fast. Really excited cause at that point the reveal/ chamber will be functional. Then I can cut in the rest of the features on the upper chassis base, like the kill key and USB recharge cable, as well as the locking mechanism. Keep you posted .

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